Installing a 3″ dump valve in a blue tote, life made easy.

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This blog pretty much goes hand in hand with my last blog titled “Boondocking and Dry Camping Solutions here.

A real money saver and effortless dumping! Dry camping has become such a breeze for me with the purchase and use of the macerator pump as I simply pump my tanks into my two blue boy totes. I have a 22 and 15 gallon type giving me a total of 37 gallons I can dump each trip to a dump station. Of course the benefit of this is you never have to hitch up go to a dump station, return and re-setup the trailer, and so easy. My problem was when at the dump station I would have to get up into the bed of the truck and lift the heavy totes up to dump them. With my bad wrist this was becoming a chore. I had decided to invest the money ($250 or more) to buy a 32 gallon tote with the dump valve on it so all I had to do is hook the hose to it, pull the valve and done! Rinsing with the same method this also eliminates you having to tow the totes through a campground to the dump station as well and especially if the dump station was off site and a mile or two away. After speaking to a Rob, owner of Morro Bay RV and Marine he suggested I just put the valves in my 2 totes instead of spending all that money on a new tote. $45 worth of parts and a little time saved me about $200 or more! Some people ask why my totes are in the back of my truck in the first place. Hey to me it’s all about making life on the road as easy as possible. Here’s a pic of my 22 gallon tote before I started with the parts I needed……

The first thing you need to do is establish where you want the valve. You must then drill a hole in the tank for the heavy rubber seal to be inserted. This can be done with a hole saw. I used a 3″ saw, but found I had to enlarge the hole some with a sharp type knife to accommodate the seal. You want the hole low as possible in order to be able to drain most of the totes contents yet it has to be high enough to accommodate the valve when the tote is sitting level on the ground or in bed of pickup..

Once the hole is drilled and the edges cleaned up the heavy rubber seal is inserted into the hole. Take note in the pic below which end (short end) goes into the tank. You have to worm the seal in per say as you see the slit in the middle of the seal is where the tank wall goes. Once I got the heavy seal in place I peeled it back along the edges all the way around putting in a large bead of silicone to seal it well wiping any excess from around the edge. Don’t be afraid to use plenty of silicone on this.

The next step was to insert the smooth flange that the valve will attach to into the seal you inserted into the tank. I suggest putting some silicone around the smooth part that goes in as well as the inside of the rubber seal to help as it’s a tight fit and must go all the way into the seal and be flush. I then let this set overnight to give the silicone time to dry and set up. You do NOT want any leaks!

Now it’s time to bolt the knife valve assembly onto the flange you inserted into to seal in the tank. This is very simple and self explanatory. On the outside of the valve is the plastic part that that your sewer hose attaches to for dumping. Just like on your RV. It all bolts together very easily. 4 bolts with nuts accomplishes this easy task.

Once everything is together you should fill the tank with fresh water and let it set for an hour or so to insure there are no leaks, I doubt if you follow my instructions about the silicone above you will have any, but if so simply drain the tank and use silicone or similar compound where necessary to take care of any leak. Other than letting the initial part setting over night to allow the silicone to dry and set up the whole project takes around an hour or so. Because the sides of most these totes are slightly rounded compared to the ones manufactured with the valves (in a flat spot) the valve will have a slightly outward and downward setting which is just fine. The end result is a couple hundred dollar savings in buying a tote with one of these valves already installed, easy effortless dumping and no need to tow the tote behind your truck or vehicle. Sure makes my life much simpler! Pretty cool even if the nearest dump station is a mile or two or even further way. This setup will also work for you motor homers as well as long as your toad is capable of carrying the totes loaded and can dump from them.

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Air Conditioning Tips

AIR CONDITIONING:

1. Your Air Conditioner is designed for a 20 degree temperature drop. If it is 100 degrees outside, the best your air conditioner can do is 80 F degree in the best of circumstances.

2. Clean your air filters weekly, or sooner if needed.

3. Annually perform the needed preventive maintenance, clean the coils under the outside cover and other items listed in your owner’s manual.

4. Pull down your shades, and add insulation to your windows when necessary.

5. Park in the shade – but examine the trees and structures for possible wind damage before doing so.

6. A water mister may be attached to your awning, or awning rail in low humidity climates to help keep your RV cool. A timer could be added, maybe 9am to 7pm to save water. Use a water filter if the water is hard.

7. Go on a day trip, to the mall, the movies or to the swimming pool on a HOT day.

8. Monitor your AC voltage, the minimum is 107 volts, the maximum is 130 volts.

9. Close or block off living areas not needed. Retract slides to minimize the space needed to air condition.

10. Pay close attention to your pets. Do they have water at all times, and can they retreat to the cooler floor areas?

11. Avoid the steam and warmth of cooking inside on a hot day. Cook outdoors or in the earliest and latest part of the day.

12. Dress in light colored clothing; sit under the shade and enjoy your new location.

RV101byfred.com
Fred Brandeberry, President

Shaking the Wintertime Blues

I have been sick most of the winter. I think my wife called it cabin fever, and then she said it turned into spring fever. I still think it’s just a bug, maybe that RV bug that’s going around. Football and the Steelers winning the Super Bowl helped me feel a little better, but now that the season is over I had a relapse.

Read more

Driving, Mileage, and Fuel – Part 3 – Bernice’s Tips

In this final post of my series Driving, Mileage, and Fuel, I cover information related to diesel engines and the process of refueling your rig.

Diesel Engines and Refueling

• Buy diesel fuel at truck stops and high-volume distributors because it minimizes the chance of water in the diesel fuel. If water gets into the fuel, it will shut down the engine. – Curtis Greene (CG), Service Manager, Endless Summer RV’s, Frederick MD
• One major benefit of an RV with a diesel engine is that all engine noise is in the rear of the motorhome, not in the driver’s area. Also, there is normally more storage room in the basement compartments, which is especially useful for full-timers. You can have larger floor plans and more and larger slideouts with greater carrying capacity. - CG
• Here are several other reasons for choosing an RV with a diesel engine instead of a gasoline engine:
  • Diesel engines provide better overall performance as related to power and weight.
  • The engine lasts longer.
  • The inside floor layout is on one level.
  • You get better handling and steering.
  • Most have an air suspension system.
  • The unit has a greater gross combined vehicle weight rating.
  • There’s a longer period between most maintenance requirements.
  • Diesel fuel is not as volatile as gasoline (it combusts at a higher temperature).
    (For more information about diesel vs. gasoline engines, refer to the post Gas vs Diesel by fellow blogger Mark Polk.)
• The diesel fuel-dispensing equipment at a truck stop is faster than that at an automobile service station because the dispensing nozzle and hose are designed for a greater volume for flow.
• If you overfill with diesel fuel at a truck stop, instead of wiping off the fuel spilled on the motorhome with a cloth, take the water hose nearby and wash down the area and then wipe it dry. This will prevent dirt in the diesel fuel or on the side of the coach from scratching the paint.

Enjoy your RVing!
Bernice

25 More Money-Saving Tips

SAVE MONEY ON MAINTENANCE AND FUEL BY KEEPING YOUR WEIGHT DOWN:

 1.    Every six months or so, go through all your storage areas. If you haven’t used something in six months, consider whether or not you really need it.

 2.    When you purchase something new like a shirt, get rid of something old. Consider donating it.

 3.    Look for book exchanges at RV parks where you stay. Trade an old book for one you haven’t read.

 4.    Libraries often have shelves of books they no longer want that are priced very reasonably. Also, look for a box or shelf with older magazines. Some may still be interesting reading or have useful articles.

 5.   Go to the library for a morning or afternoon to read the latest issues of your favorite magazines.

 6.   If you are in an area for a while, check into getting a library card. You can check out recent books. Many libraries have a movie/DVD section as well.

 7.    Carry dried foods instead of cans.

 8.    Tools are heavy. Carry the minimum ones and borrow the others.

SAVE MONEY ON PURCHASES

 9.    Obtain an “America the Beautiful-National Parks and Federal Recreation Areas Pass” for $80 if you’ll be visiting more than 4 or 5 parks. You’ll save on admission fees.      

10.   Seniors 62 and over pay a one-time fee of $10. The Access Pass for those with a disability is free.

11.   Volunteer at least 500 hours for the National Park Service and receive a Volunteer Pass good for the next year that gives you free admission.

12.   The RV lifestyle is casual. One dress-up outfit is more than enough. Jeans and t-shirts are the basic uniform. If you need something a little fancier, you might be able to pick it up at a thrift store.

13.   Eat lunch out instead of dinner. Often restaurants have the same menu but the prices go up at dinnertime. Prices for buffets in casinos go up sometime in late afternoon but the menu is the same.

14.   Use your stove and oven in your RV to cook with instead of eating out often.

15.   Buy clothing and household goods at 2^nd hand stores. If you need an outfit for one event, you could find just the thing at a low price. Donate it back when you are finished with it.

16.   Make your own entertainment. Play cards, read, watch videos.

17.   Trade books and videos with friends.

18.   Shop on sale days at the market.

19.   Buy fewer processed foods. They cost more. Cook a double batch to have a ready-made dinner another day.

20.   Vacuum seal your food (fruits, veggies, meat) to keep longer without spoiling. Machine is sold at RV shows

21.   Slow cook in crockpots if you have a hook-up

22.   Grow your own herbs rather than pay the high prices for them in the market.

23.   Eat leftovers in stir-frys, stews, etc.

24.   Stick to your shopping list.

25.   Look for discount coupons in local papers offered by restaurants and attractions. Some areas offer discounts on certain days. For example, in San Diego’s Balboa Park, each museum has a free admission day.

These tips are adapted from the free handout, “Tip of the Week: 52 Ways To Save Money Living the RV Lifestyle,” that Jaimie Hall Bruzenak and I wrote as a gift to people who subscribe to our free online newsletter “RV Lifestyles.” Sign up at our Web site  to subscribe to the newsletter.

This blog will be dark for three weeks. I’m off to Israel from November 10 – December 3. As part of my money-saving goals, I’ve been saving travel miles for years so I wouldn’t have to pay for a round trip ticket for this once-in-a-lifetime journey.

Safe and frugal travels,

Alice Zyetz

Driving, Mileage, and Fuel – Part 1 – Bernice’s Tips

Basic to any RVing trip is, of course, driving and maintaining either the vehicle that pulls the towable or a motorhome. RVers are always learning better and more ways to do things. In this series of posts, I’ll share with you tips from experienced RVers that make driving safer and more fuel-efficient.

Driving and Mileage

• If semi trucks seem to blow you off the road when they pass you, Camping world sells a product called Steer Safe Stabilizer. It really helps also on soft shoulders. – Louis and Ann Beeler, Salome, AZ
• For those who need to limit the amount of fluids or caffeine they drink when traveling, freeze a small bottle of water, then put it in an insulated cup holder. You can sip from it all day as you drive. – Robert Witter, Westminster, MD
• As you approach a line of barrels in road construction areas, watch out for any that are protruding into your lane.
• Be alert to possible overhead obstructions. You’ll avoid having a tree limb, low gas station roof, or low overpass tear off your antenna or rooftop air conditioner or scratch or dent the exterior of your RV.
• Avoid driving downtown through a large city unless the interstate takes you through it. There is often construction, many traffic lights, and much traffic.
• To get better mileage, (1) avoid driving with the water tank full (a gallon of water weighs about 8.2 pounds), and (2) drive at 55 miles per hour for gasoline engines or in the economy mode for diesel engines. The more weight the engine has to pull, the more fuel it uses.
• If your new motorhome is getting terrible gas mileage, don’t despair. Once the coach is broken in, you can expect better mileage. (One trucker reported that he started to get maximum mileage when his vehicle’s odometer read 30,000 miles.)
• Keep a calculator handy in a dashboard compartment so you can quickly figure gas mileage. Divide the number of gallons of gas purchased into the number of miles traveled since the last fill-up.

Enjoy your RVing!
Bernice

RV Maintenance – Part 3 – Tips from Bernice

This is my last set of tips on RV Maintenance. I can’t deny that experience has taught some of us RVers quite a bit the hard way. Maybe the most important lesson is that with regards to RVs, as with so many other aspects of life, the old adage attributed to Benjamin Franklin holds tremendous truth: an ounce of prevention is worth a pound in cure. So, here’s my last batch of RV maintenance tips, but if you have more, feel free to comment.

• After you dump, pour Aqua-Kem Concentrated Liquid Holding Tank Deodorant into the toilet and flush it into the black water tank. This product deodorizes and helps disintegrate the incoming waste and tissue and also helps keep the holding tank clean.
• Use a water pressure gauge to check the pressure coming from campground spigots. The regulator on the gauge allows you to set the amount of pressure entering the plumbing system of the RV. Too much pressure can pop loose various connections and cause leaks. To be on the safe side, turn off the campground water just before you go to bed each night.
• When your engine seems to be gasping for breath, impurities in the gasoline may have clogged the in-line filter between the gas tank and the engine. Remove the filter, blow out any silt and dirt, and replace the filter. A spare filter is handy to have along. Read more