RV Doctor - Is There An Easy Way to Access RV’s Water Lines?

If you're new here, you may want to subscribe to our E-mail Digest or RSS Feed. We will then send you the stories that are posted each day in an e-mail digest. We use a service called Feedburner for delivery of these emails. You will receive an e-mail from Feedburner after you subscribe and you must click on that email to activate your subscription. Thanks for visiting and enjoy all the information! RV.Net Blog AdminDear RV Doctor, I have a water leak that looks like it is coming from under the tub when I turned the hot water tank bypass off. Is there an easy way to access the water lines without destroying the inside of the bathroom? I think the damage is caused from mice chewing a hole in the water line. Please help! - Joe Linneman, (Wentzville, MO) Read more Tell a Friend Read More →

The Low-Down on Drinking Water Filters

As an RVer, you can come across many different water sources in your travels. Most campgrounds and RV parks take care to ensure their water supply is free of contaminants by pre-filtering the water before it arrives at your RV. Often though, the water doesn’t taste very good either because it was improperly filtered or not filtered at all. Or maybe the chlorine levels are so high to prevent bacterial growth that you think you’re drinking pool water. There are several drinking water filter solutions you can easily modify your RV with to get the best tasting water possible. So here is the low-down on various types of filtration systems available. Read more Tell a Friend Read More →

Get Some Control Over Holding Tank Odors

Holding tank odors can be a real problem, especially if you don’t know how to deal with them. If you are new to the RV scene, this issue is perhaps the most popular complaint (aside from dead batteries!). When purchasing a new RV, part of the delivery process is explaining how to empty and rinse your holding tanks, as well as preventing holding tank odors by using chemicals. But on a particularly hot day, even chemicals can’t stop the odoriferous emanations gagging you out of your RV. It’s the same problem porta-potties have which everyone has probably experienced at one time or another. So what can you do to assist in controlling tank odors? Do the Lil’ Stanker holding tank fan mod. Read more Tell a Friend Read More →

Step One in an RV Makeover

For over 16 months now I have lived full-time in my Lance Camper. 48 States and an odometer pushing 70,000 miles gave me a personal best. With a wee bit of celebration in mind, and to kick off the Summer of ’09, I wanted to treat myself right so I turned to Thetford. There is something about a porcelain toilet. Now, if you’ve never spent a year and a half on a factory installed plastic one, you’re probably thinking, “it’s not all that big of a deal.” Well, for me it was time for an upgrade, and a state-of-the-art one at that. Now when Nature calls I’ll be answering with a new toilet. Read more Tell a Friend Read More →

RV Holding Tank Monitors

Sometimes the smallest of things can be the most frustrating. Take for example, RV holding tank monitors. You push a button and the monitor display is supposed to tell you the levels of fluid in your holding tanks using a few simple indicator lights. One light means empty, two lights means 1/3 full, three lights means 2/3 full, and four lights means full. The problem is that these simple indicator lights are notoriously inaccurate and very misleading. Take for example the case where the monitor is showing two lights for your fresh water tank level, meaning you have 1/3 remaining. As soon as you use a small bit of water, the level drops below the 1/3 level and now the indicator lights show you are empty. This is true no matter the size of your holding tanks. The standard sensor arrangement is such that it cannot measure levels any more accurately. How can you get more accurate readings for any and all of your holding tanks? Modify your RV with a See-Level Tank Monitor System. Read more Tell a Friend Read More →

Save Electricity - Replace your Water Heating Element

Use caution – only a qualified technician should accomplish the following procedures. Electrical and LP gas safety issues are involved. Your 120 volt heating element will use 10 to 12 amps of power. Our recommended heating element will use 3 to 4 amps. Yes, your water heater will not heat up as fast, but you can use the LP gas heat at the same time as the electric. Remove the 120-volt, 1440-watt heating element and replace it with a 236-volt, 1440-watt element. This replacement will look just like your 120-volt element. Ace Hardware, True-Value Hardware, Lowe’s and Home Depot should be able to supply the element you wan for about $10. Check the condition of your anode, if you have one, flush the water heater tank while you are there. Magnesium anodes work better than zinc or aluminum. If 50% of your anode is gone, replace it. Atwood brand water heaters do not require an anode. Their tanks are porcelain lined. If you are qualified: Disconnect the 120-volt power from the water heater; better yet unplug your rig from the pedestal. Your convertor will provide 12 volt DC power if not disabled. Turn of the LP gas at the tank. Disconnect the volt DC power – best done by disconnecting the wire(s) from the negative post of the coach batteries. Run water through the hot water faucet until the heater tank is cold. Turn off the water to the rig at the pedestal. Open the hot water faucets to release the pressure from the hot water tank. Do not open the pressure relief valve... Read more

12 Tips for Keeping Water Fresh in an RV

Tips for Keeping Water Fresh in an RV If you turn on a faucet in your RV’s kitchen or bath and are hit with the smell of rotten eggs, that’s a sure sign that it’s time to freshen your RV’s system. Although some well water contains sulfur, which can lead to the smelly spray, the likely culprit is a buildup of bacteria in your freshwater system. Don’t wait until the water starts smelling before you sanitize. It’s a good idea to flush your recreational vehicle’s water system once or twice a year to keep your water fresh. Here’s how to sanitize your RV’s water supply system: 1. Begin with your freshwater tank about half full. 2. Turn the water heater off and wait for it to cool. 3. Add a cleaning solution to the water tank. Here’s where opinions differ. Most people agree that using a household bleach solution is the most effective way to cleanse the bacteria (Note: always dilute bleach with water – about ¼ cup of household bleach for each 15 gallons of tank capacity); however, some people prefer to use milder cleansers like dish detergent, baking soda or vinegar. The bleach solution is the most effective sanitizer, but make sure you flush and rinse well. 4. Next, using the water pump (not the external water supply) turn on every hot and cold faucet in the unit, one at a time, letting the chlorinated water run through them for one or two minutes. You should be able to smell the chlorine. 5. Top off the RV freshwater tank and let the solution soak overnight if... Read more

RV Doctor - Atwood Oven Won’t Maintain Temperature

Dear Doc, My problem is with my Atwood oven. It has never worked right from when I got the RV new. I took it back to the dealer and they made some adjustments, but it still doesn’t work. It is now four years old. The problem is the oven will not maintain the temperature. When it reaches its selected temperature the burner will shut off and never come back on. When I first light the pilot it takes about two to three minutes of holding a match under the pilot to light it. When the pilot does light the flame sputters for a couple of minutes then it seems to burn normal. I set the oven temp to 450-degrees or so and the oven will go up to about 350-degrees and then the burner goes out. Sometimes the pilot will go out also. My other appliances seem to work okay. Gary Schiff, (Middleton, MA) Read more Tell a Friend Read More →

RV Doctor - RV Hot Water Heater Only Producing Small Amount of Hot Water

Dear RV Doctor, My girls and I just purchased a 1985 Minnie Winnie. We just took our first “shakedown” trip and discovered two issues. First, the hot water heater; the heater will light and produce hot water, unfortunately it is only about 2-1/2 cups (no warm shower for me)! I went to the RV store and was told to replace the thermostat and the overheating sensor, which I did. Nothing changed. Any suggestions? Secondly, the pilot light in the oven will light but not come up to temperature. I’ve been told two different things. First I was told that the thermostat was bad and needed replacing (very expensive) and second that the pilot light assembly needs to be cleaned. Care to way in on these two issues? Stephanie Williams, (West Richland, WA) Read more Tell a Friend Read More →

RV Doctor - No Gray Water Tank in My 1973 Go-Tag-Along RV?

Dear Gary, I am a first-time travel trailer owner, having recently purchased a several-owner used 1973 Go-Tag-Along. I can only find one waste water dump valve, which is located on the larger waste pipe directly beneath the toilet. Another smaller diameter pipe is connected below that T-handle, so whenever I run the shower or the two sinks the water does not appear to go to a gray water holding tank, but discharges below the black water valve. Is it possible that there is a gray water holding tank with some other type of shutoff device? Sam Pennartz, (Wyoming, PA) Read more Tell a Friend Read More →

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