RV Indoor Plumbing - Potty Training

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Howdy !

Our Recreational vehicles provide us with several creature comforts so that we can better enjoy our time on the road. One of the more important comfort systems, as my grandmother used to say, is the indoor plumbing. RV Toilets have been designed to be dependable devices that perform their function without a lot of fuss or bother and very low water usage; but, as with all things, they need to have maintenance and be taken care of to ensure a long service life.

There are three basic types of RV toilets; the freshwater or marine toilet, the recirculating type and the portable potty. They can be constructed of molded plastic, china or ceramic materiel. They are manually operated with a foot or hand lever, and in some models they operate electrically or with compressed air at the touch of a switch. The freshwater and recirculating types are permanently mounted in the RV while the portable type can be carried like a small suitcase.

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Tank Sprayers – the Unglamorous Gadgets

Flat screen TV’s might be sexy, but when you are at the dumping station on Sunday morning with a string of like-minded RV’ers cooling their heels behind you, there is nothing quicker and more efficient than an integrated tank sprayer for getting that waste tank squeaky clean. There are a number of products on the market, but the major players are both from Camco®; the Quickie Flush™ and the Tornado Rotary Tank Rinser™. These products allow you to connect a water hose directly to the black (waste) tank, spraying the inside surfaces of the tank and greatly aiding in the evacuation of waste, without having to wait until the tank is empty, then refill the tank and re-dump (and probably repeat!).

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RV Plumbing: What Is This?

Over the last few weeks a contributor to this blog, Gary Bunzer, has posted an excellent 5-part article on odor control in your RV. It covers a wide range of topics of concern to us all so that our RV experiences can be as pleasurable as possible.

Gary touched on proper venting of your systems as an important means of accomplishing odor control. The vent pipe from the tank through the roof of your RV allows the escape of gases and odors within the tank and piping systems.

On your grey water system which includes the kitchen sink, bath vanity sinks and the shower, you have “traps”, also called P-traps that retain water to act as a baffle to block any gases and associated odors within the piping system and tank. This trap is directly below the drain opening of each fixture.

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RV Indoor Plumbing

 The Joys of Not Being a Caveman

Howdy !

Indoor plumbing is one of the greatest inventions made by modern man, leastways that’s what my Granny used to say - and after using the ol’ Outhouse for my first dozen or so years I gotta agree !! The inventor of the of the RV/Marine toilet goes unsung but not forgotten by the users of all RV’s. Being able to take the bathroom along with us on our treks eliminates one of the more irksome problems of camping out. Most of the difficulties encountered with RV sanitation systems are a result of the users lack of understanding of their waste holding systems.

The Tanks

Although waste tanks have been constructed of fiberglass and metal, today’s black and gray water tanks are usually constructed of low density polyethylene materiel which is durable and easy for manufacturers to mold into the shape best suited to fit a particular RV. The color of the tanks may be black, gray or even white. If in doubt as to which tank your dealing with, look at the drain valve.

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Odor Control in Your RV - Part 5 - Evacuation

In part 1, part 2, part 3 and part 4 of this series of posts I’ve discussed how venting, additives, waste component systems, and holding tank blockages can play a role in odor control in your RV. Today, I’ll discuss the actual procedures for dumping your tanks.

Correct Evacuation Procedures

1. Always wear disposable protective gloves.

When handling any waste system component, always wear throwaway latex or rubber gloves and be sure to wash your hands thoroughly afterwards. No need to take undue risks.

2. Connect the sewer hose to the termination outlet and the sewer inlet.

Unless you are equipped with Phase Four’s Waste Master system with its permanently installed hose and nozzle, you’ll need to remove the sewer cap and attach the sewer hose adapter. Make sure the seals are in good shape. Inspect the seal on the cap and the adapter periodically. Seals are easily replaced so there is no excuse for having dripping hose connections.I recommend using a clear sewer adapter at the hose connection or a clear fitting at the sewer inlet in order to check the cleanliness of the water as you flush each tank after evacuation. Be sure you have the correct elbow adapters on hand to securely affix the bitter end (open end) of the hose into the park’s sewer inlet. No leaks allowed here either!

Keep in mind there is no standard size sewer inlet mandated for RV parks or dump sites; you’ll find everything from 3-inch to 4-inch to even 5-inch or larger inlets. Be prepared! Do not just simply stick the open end of the hose down the sewer inlet allowing tank odors and park septic odors to escape. Also, use the shortest sewer hose as possible. Do not use that 20-footer for a 6-foot run and have it snake back and forth between the coach and the sewer inlet. (This is why I recommend the Sewer Master hose… extend it only as far as you need!) And be sure to maintain the proper slope of the drain hose. Remember water and waste cannot flow uphill!

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Self Contained RV Lifestyle - Water

Wanta Drink ?

Howdy
Water. . It’s one of the most important parts of the self-contained RV lifestyle and something a buddy of mine has a problem with. His “fresh” water tank was pouring out green stuff and stank like - well, it was bad !!

For the most part, there are few problems and so we tend to ignore the workings of the RV water system until something goes wrong.

There are two basic types of fresh water supply systems for RV’s. The older method is the pressure system where an air pump is used to pressurize a metal tank containing water while on the road and the city water connection provides the pressure to the tank when parked with hook-ups. Because of inherent problems with this system it’s not used any longer by manufacturers, although you will still see it on older RV’s.

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Odor Control in your RV - Part 4 - Tank Blockages

In part 1, part 2, and part 3 of this series of posts I’ve discussed how venting, additives, and waste component systems can play a role in odor control in your RV. Today, we move on to holding tank blockages.

Many experts recommend frequent flushing of the holding tanks with vast amounts of fresh water to help rid them of odors. I usually agree with this tact, except for the fact it quite often wastes precious water; a commodity that must be conserved, especially when dry camping.

The main reason for frequent rinsing is obviously to eliminate (or minimize) those pesky holding tank blockages, predominantly in the black, toilet tank. That’s why we all know to leave the black tank valve shut until ready for evacuation (more on this later).

But to totally eliminate holding tank blockages and to rid the tank itself of most odors I recommend finding a dealer for All Pro Water-Flow.

All Pro-Water-Flow uses a patented, rotating high pressure delivery nozzle that forces water onto virtually every square inch inside the holding tank, including all in-tank monitor panel sensors; (ever had inaccurate readings on your monitor panel?). Only with extremely high water pressure provided by this hydro-cleaning process can all sludge be completely removed. Fiber optic camera shots (at right) show the interior of a holding tank before and after an All Pro treatment.

Performed annually, all holding tank blockages can now be eliminated. And remember, the cleaner the tank, the less likely odors will proliferate.

Now that you’ve been introduced throughout this series to some of my favorite products and services regarding RV waste systems, I’ll move on next week to the actual procedures for dumping those tanks.

Gary Bunzer, The RV Doctor

Odor Control in Your RV - Part 3 - System Components

In part 1 and part 2 of this series of posts I discussed how venting and additives can play a role in odor control in your RV. This week I tackle some waste system components that also play a role, and discuss some products I’ve found to assist.

We’ve all experienced the negative aspects of evacuating the holding tanks. We’ve all had to contend with the nasty job of attaching the sewer hose, connecting it to the dump station (somehow), and then dumping each holding tank by yanking on a cable or T-handle (both of which have the propensity to break or wear out eventually - typically at the most inopportune moment, right?). And then somehow flush out the hose without getting waste on the ground and then try to find a location to store it well away from anything else, yuck! Isn’t there an easier way? Yes!

Phase Four Industries is one of those leading edge companies that is always searching for a better method of coping with what most RVers believe to be the least enjoyable aspect of RVing, dumping the tanks.

One of their first products was an electric gate valve called Drain Master. With the push of a button from inside the comforts of the RV, holding tank evacuation can be a clean and sanitary act. The full-way 3-inch Drain Master electric valve easily replaces all standard four-bolt termination valves found on any RV. It is powered by 12-volts DC and installation is easy. Adapters are available for the smaller 1-1/4″ or 1-1/2″ gray water termination valves. Though these smaller valves are legal, I feel they actually contribute to the proliferation of gray tank odors and false monitor panel readings. It is my opinion it would benefit every segment of the RV industry if manufacturers choose instead to use only 3-inch outlets on both gray and black holding tanks. RVers would benefit by realizing a quicker exit flow rate during evacuations. Tests have proven that faster dumping sequences will increase the flushing action resulting in all waste being quickly washed away rather than having them slowly recede down the tank walls and trickle through a smaller opening. Thankfully many RV manufacturers have now adopted this as common practice.

By the way, each Drain Master valve is equipped with a manual override in case battery power is lost.

Another fine product I recommend from Phase Four is the Sewer Master. This state of the art sewer hose is like no other on the market. It is made from 20-mil polypropylene, not vinyl. How many pinholes have you seen in a relatively new vinyl hose? No other hose is as strong or as durable. And it’s repairable too. This one won’t get tossed out the second week into your trip. One unique feature is its inherent memory; no need to struggle with a floppy, accordion-like vinyl hose. This one can be extended only as far as need be. Bend graceful turns and it stays in place. If you only need eight feet to reach the sewer inlet, just extend it that far. Sewer Master is available in 12-foot or 25-foot lengths. And they’re guaranteed for one year.

Here’s another product I really like from Phase Four, the Waste Master. I’ve long felt RV manufacturers have given us the “short end of the stick” by not supplying a safe, clean, positive shut-off method of connecting the RV sewer hose to the sewer inlet in the campground. Well, the Waster Master system takes care of that dilemma.

The Waste Master hose (available up t0 25-feet in length) is permanently attached to the termination assembly (retro-fit bayonet adapters are available). This eliminates the need to waste copious amounts of fresh water rinsing out the hose after dumping. With a positive shut-off at the nozzle and a positive shut-off at each termination valve, there is never a mess to contend with, or odors emanating from a filthy, open-ended hose jammed into a storage compartment. A compartment oftentimes not even sealed from the interior of the coach. Every little bit helps! My recommended set-up includes Drain Master electric valves on each tank coupled with the Waste Master 1, Part #5525, which contains the Sewer Master hose and the permanently attached nozzle. The Waste Master system is adaptable to any coach with a large enough water bay to store the hose and nozzle. And remember, because it is a closed system, there is no odor potential. Other, more elaborate systems are also available as well.

That’s it for this week. Next week in I’ll discuss Holding Tank Blockages and a product I recommend to help with those.

Until later,
Gary Bunzer, The RV Doctor

Draining an RV Water System

When you return from a trip and you’re not going to use the RV for a while you need to drain the entire water system to prevent it from getting stale and musty. You can start by draining the water heater. If the water heater has an electric mode make sure it is in the “off’” position before you drain the water heater tank. It’s a good idea to turn the breaker for the water heater off, so the switch doesn’t accidentally get turned on with no water in the tank. Go to the outside compartment where the water heater is located. The drain plug, or petcock is normally located in the bottom left hand corner. Remove the plug and open the pressure relief valve on top of the water heater to assist in draining.                    (See Caution below)

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Odor Control in Your RV - Part 2 - Additives

Last week I discussed in part 1 of this series on odor control in your RV how venting can alleviate some issues.

This week I am tackling additives.

One fine product I’ve tested and recommended for years is RM Tank Care manufactured by Tri-Synergy, Inc.

RM Tank Care was a the forefront of the development of the, now very popular, enzyme-based, bacteria-infused holding tank additives.

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