The Age Old Question, How Many Pounds Of Air Shall I Put In My Tires?
July 21, 2008 by Brad Sears · 13 Comments
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Well sir, I have never been accused of being terribly smart and politicaly astue, so here I go jumping from the frying pan into the fire on a subject that some have said in the forums is a dead horse and beaten to death. But there is more to the tire pressure story than just when will it fail or blow up. Or how much pressure to ad and when.
We all know that a tire that is under inflated will use more power to make it roll than a properly inflated tire. That is because of these factors:
Choosing An Inverter/Charger
June 29, 2008 by Lug_Nut · 16 Comments
So far as motorized recreational vehicles, there are two duty types of inverters used. Stand alone and integrated inverter/chargers. Stand alone units are relatively low wattage output units that are individually wired to operate a single load like a television and perhaps a satellite receiver. The inverter/charger is an integrated part of the electrical and charging system of the unit. The inverter in this case serves two purposes. First it is the main battery charger, at least while either an outside source or generator is supplying AC power. Secondly, it is an inverter that supplies AC power when none is available. Once AC power is absent, the inverter automatically takes over, providing it is in the armed mode state. It is normally wired to operate necessary functions within reasonable wattage like T.V’s, receivers, duplex outlets, refrigerators (if an all electric coach), ice makers and perhaps microwaves.
There are two output configurations available, M.S.W. (Modified Sine Wave) and T.S.W. (True Sine Wave). All smaller or cheaper inverters are M.S.W. Most motor home inverters are also currently M.S.W. The exception of this would be higher end units and newer all electric coaches, most of which are equipped with T.S.W. output inverters. So what are the operational differences?
M.S.W. gets it name from exactly what it sounds like. It is a modified look-a-like wave. However it is more “square” than the smooth sweeping frequency lines that are created with a true sine wave. These inverters are cheaper to buy but function well in most applications. There are however, loads it does not work with or properly with. Those loads are, but are not limited to, many small power chargers, electronic boards found in many appliances, most microwaves, 120 volt A.C. powered clocks and full featured cappuccino makers. Some of these will not operate and some may be damaged over time with continued use.
T.S.W. power resembles that of home supplied hydro. It is capable of operating any like voltage load providing it does not exceed its output capacity. These units are now to a price level making them the best choice for future use.
So, if you are ordering a new coach, or replacing or upgrading to an inverter charger, should this be a “must have”? In my opinion, it is. The benefits far out weigh the now small price difference. If you own a coach that has a M.S.W. inverter charger, like most do, don’t worry. Your coach was equipped to exist with such a wave form and should do fine. But, just remember, if you were to order a new rig or ever it has to be replaced, go T.S.W. You won’t regret it.
On Sunday the 13th of july, we will be looking at “Practical RV Inverter Applications”. I sure hope you can join us.
Just Reading The Sines - Lug_Nut - Peter Mercer
Today’s Roof Air Conditioner Choices
June 22, 2008 by Lug_Nut · 8 Comments
Air conditioning is something that many of us have come to expect, whether it is in a house, car, office or RV. In many cases it is no longer an option as it once was. That is the case with most, if not all, motor homes and trailers today. While there are also manufacturers that mount the A/C units in the basement, we will only deal today with roof mounted. There are, and may be, configuration choices with options when it comes to ordering a new rig or replacement A/C unit. The selection may include the number of units, output capacity, heat strips, heat pumps, height profile, air ducted and possibly the thermostat control type. While many of these will probably not be a choice when purchasing a new rig, it is possible that a couple may, particularly if you are ordering a factory build. Let’s look at these choices.
Number of Units: Single A/C units are standard on Class “C” and “B” coaches, most trailers and shorter, entry level class “A” coaches. Larger class “A” coaches usually come standard with two units. The largest group of class “A’s”, 42′ to 45′, generally come standard with three A/C units.
Diesel Engines Are Getting Quieter And Quieter
June 8, 2008 by Lug_Nut · 3 Comments
Whether in a pickup truck, semi tractor or motor coach, we are all used to hearing the sound of a diesel engine, knocking loudly like a herd of knock kneed cattle on a slow gallop. But have you noticed that newer diesel equipped vehicles are getting quieter and quieter? European diesel powered automobiles are extremely quiet and can not, in many cases, be differentiated from the sound of a gasoline car. So much so, that one could actually mistake a diesel as a gas when filling the tank - not once, but twice. Please don’t ask me how I know. Suffice to say, there is an auto rental company in Italy that will only rent me a gas powered ride.
So, to what technology do we owe this reduction? Read more
Jacking the Rig before going under it
March 10, 2008 by Brad Sears · 2 Comments
As Soon As Mud Seasons Over I’m Gonna…
That’s all it takes up here — for mud season end so we can start our springs work.
Of course when mud season ends the sap stops running and the maple syrup supply comes in. But at the end of mud season, when the ground firms up, is when I can get the planks down and jack the rig up or move it.
Yep, it was time to pack the front wheel bearings last fall when we got home from the west coast but time ran out before it got too cold and snowy, so let’s cover what I consider the way that I want the rig jacked and supported before I venture under it.
What’s New Today and Tomorrow In RV Lighting
March 9, 2008 by Lug_Nut · 4 Comments
Innovations to interior and exterior lighting for recreational vehicles strive to meet several needs, appropriate for the intended task, within an acceptable power consumption range and to look good, create an ambience. While there are additional requirements, these are probably the most common and apparent to the user. As far as being appropriate for the task at hand, the most common uses are providing light to see in, illumination for vehicle night operation and just plain designer accents. Power consumption for all but the vehicles moving lights, is a concern. Low wattage is required to extend the charge state of a battery, or battery bank, during non-electrical AC support such as shore power or generator. Designer accent lighting can be used indirectly in valances, rope lighting runs, and many other eye catching ideas.
Having adequate interior light for such chores as reading, cooking, etc., requires the use of more illumination. This in turn uses higher wattages resulting in the shortening of the charge state of the batteries. This has led to many coaches being equipped with fluorescent light fixtures for decades. These fluorescent lights provide a great deal of light with far less power usage when compared to incandescent lamps. Also halogen lighting has become very popular, though certainly not a power saver. These provide a bright focused lighting and are usually set up in groups with wattage of 10 or so at 12 volts per unit.
The newest innovation slowly finding its way to the recreational vehicle market is the L.E.D. (light emitting diode) lamp. These draw substantially less power than even fluorescent lights and can today, be found on some models used for tail and clearance lights. Additionally they are showing up in decorative rope lighting. There are many advantages to these types of lamps including a much longer service life than the regular incandescent bulb. Regular lamps generally have an expected life of around 1,000 to 2,000 hours, whereas many L.E.D. can provide anywhere from 30 to near 60 thousand hours or more. In brake light applications, they are noticeably faster to illuminate than traditional units. Also, unlike ballasts, in fluorescent light fixture, there is no R.F. (radio frequency) interference.
Boondocking - Part 2
February 18, 2008 by Mike Steffen · 7 Comments
Howdy !
We left off from part one of some boondocking thoughts by suggesting that to get the maximum out of our RV’s self contained operating abilities we might need to do some modifications not only to our lifestyle but also to our rigs.
How well our RV’s work without hook-ups is more up to us and how we utilize the built-in systems of the vehicle, plus how well we can conserve it’s resources within the basic capability or the RV. There is not much we can do to expand our storage tanks. We could carry large water bottles to supplement our fresh water tank, but that same water has to go out the gray tank. Blue boy portable waste water tanks will empty the gray and black tank but then we have the hassle of dumping the tanks into them, carrying the critters to a dump site and then dumping them. The best way to control the fresh and old water is conservation. For example, the water you would normally run in the shower waiting for it to get hot. Collect that water and use it to cook with. After cooking you might want to toss the dirty water down the toilet instead of the gray tank sink. Why? The gray tank will normally fill faster than the black tank so if you put some of the waste cooking water in the black you extend the use of your gray tank. Some of the cooking and dish washing water can also be used to flush the toilet instead of water from the fresh tank so you save two ways. You can even make it a game on the best ways to extend your water and tanks.
How about propane usage? When camping off the plug most of use propane to power the furnace, the refrigerator and the water heater. Let’s look at these systems one by one. The furnace uses a 12VDC motor to run the fan and LP as a heat source. Atwood and Suburban supply most of the forced air furnaces for the RV market. Any forced air unit will consume quite a bit of LP and 12VDC. An effective alternative is the Olympian catalytic LP heater from Camco which uses a special pad to radiate heat so the propane usage is very low and there is no 12VDC usage at all. About the only other way to save here is wear a sweater in the house and conserve your LP and battery’s or better yet hitch up and move someplace warmer!
Gray and Black water tank cleaning.
February 6, 2008 by William Gotthelf · 14 Comments
You mean I have to clean them? Well yes you actually do. Gray water tanks accumulate soap scum on the sides of the tanks because most of the time people leave the valve open when camping so the tank mearly has water pass through it. Old soap scum along with food particles eventually will combine to make some nasty odors. If you have been camping for any length of time you will hear many different ways to freshen the gray water tank and in turn improve the accuracy of your holding tank gauge.
Before your next camping trip go to a pool supply store and buy a 32 ounce bottle of de-foamer solution. This is used in spa’s to eliminate the foam caused by detergent residue in peoples swimming suits. Stop and pick up 2 lbs of baking soda. Now after your next camping trip and before you head home fill the gray water tank about a third of the way. Add 6 ounces of the de-foaming agent down the kitchen sink and let the faucet run for a few minutes. Okay now drive home. The sloshing of the tank will neutralize soap scum and wash the tank walls clean. Leave this solution in the tank until you head out for your next camping trip or next campground. Before you head out add the 2 lbs of baking soda through the kitchen sink running water again for a few minutes. When you get to the campground dump the tank and you have cleaned out the gray water tank. Black water tanks are cleaned a little differently but moving the camper sloshing the mix around helps it get cleaned out also. So you could do both on the same trip. First, one of the biggest mistakes campers make is keeping the black water valve open when camping.
RVing with the whole family
January 23, 2008 by Lil'Darlin1972 · 1 Comment
Last Mother’s Day weekend, we went camping with my family. We had our motorhome, my sisters rented small cabins of their own, and my mom and stepdad rented a nice little kottage. It was the first time we had all camped together since I was a kid.
There can be some challenges when camping with a group. We were on 3 different sites in different parts of the campground. It would’ve been easier to camp next to each other, but the cabins and kottages were in different areas. We found ourselves running back and forth quite a bit. Just when you get settled in next to the campfire, you realize you forgot something. And so it goes.
Meal times can be a challenge if doing group meals. For our weekend, we decided to do our own breakfast and lunches and do group dinners with everyone contributing something. It sounded good on paper, but we quickly realized it wasn’t easy being streets away from each other trying to set up for dinner. And since we all got up at different times and had lunch at different times, we weren’t ready to eat dinner at the same time. Next time we will agree on a set dinner time ahead of time that way everyone can plan the rest of the day accordingly.
One nice thing about camping with family is that the kids have more people to hang out with. There were cousins, Aunt and Uncles and Grandma and Papa. Ever notice how much kids open up to people while sitting around a fire or walking around a campground ? And the bigger kids help out with the smaller kids and don’t seem to mind like they do back at home.
Sanitizing your water system
January 22, 2008 by William Gotthelf · 3 Comments
Ever been at a campground where the water was brown? Had a boil water notice issued while you were there? Ever taken a pipe from your water system and felt the inside of it? At least once a year or if any of the above things have happened to you, you need to sanitize your water system, both city water and fresh water tank systems. It is really not as hard as it sounds. In this blog I will discuss the city water side and in Part 2 I will go over sanitizing the fresh water tank and pump system.
When RV’ers sanitize their city water system (if they remember) most forget the supply hose. The easiest way to sanitize the hose is to add about 12 ounces of bleach (use the store brand) to a gallon of water. Drain the hose completely and refill (using a funnel with the other end of the hose at the same height as the end you are filling) with the bleach/water mixture. Once you have the mixture in the hose screw the 2 ends together and let sit for at least an hour. Contact time with the bleach is what kills bacteria. After the hour is up connect the hose to the camper and the other end to a hose bib. Try not to lose the bleach/water solution in the hose. Turn water on. In your camper turn on one faucet (kitchen, bathroom, shower and toilet) at a time until you can smell the bleach, then shut off the faucet. If you have an exterior shower don’t forget it also. Let the solution sit in the pipes for at least an hour, then run each faucet for at least 5 minutes to flush bleach. If you have an in-line water filter you will need to change the filter. If you have a filter that uses a drop in cartridge remove the filter element before you add the bleach/water solution and after you have flushed the system add a new cartridge. A side benefit to this would be reducing or eliminating the gray water tank smell. Where I live we have a water shortage so when the gray water tank fills I drain onto my lawn. Please follow the rules in your particular area. More next week….
