Different Paths

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A bit of time has passed since my last blog entry….a lot of things have happened, and many more have changed. When we started our fulltime adventure, it was to find the "perfect place" to land. We have been looking for 9 years and seen most of our wonderful country. This past year has been a time of change. We were planning on spending last winter workcamping in east Texas. We were on the job less than a week when we were summoned to So Cal to care for Terry’s Mom (82), who had fractured her back falling off the roof of the house we had bought so she would not be homeless! Sooooo……we ended up moving her to an assisted living facility this past summer and putting the house on the market. It sold last month and is ready to close escrow. Terry’s Dad passed away about 2 years ago.

My Mom is 87 and still active and healthy. She really should not be driving, so does very little of that activity. We lost my Dad four years ago and Mom adjusted well. We periodically asked her if she would like to come live with us.  We were willing to get a two bedroom fiver to accomodate her, or even to settle down and buy a house. She has always declined the offer, stating she was happy in her home of over 25 years with her memories and familiar surroundings.  The last time we talked about her moving was this past summer. We had been looking at property in eastern ID with the intention of getting something that we would have when the boys were ready to move and take care of us. They are adament about taking caring for us in our feeble years. When I told her what we were considering, and asked if she would come, she went ballistic!  (OK….I sure won’t go there again!!)

We had been working hard all summer and had not found anything we were really interested in, so we planned a trip to the western ID mountains last month. We knew of a buy-in RV resort in Cascade that we wanted to check out. We rented a car and drove to Cascade and spent three days looking at property. We found several interesting prospects, including a house that we really liked.

While there, I called my Mom and told her what we were doing and asked one last time if she would condider coming to live with us if we bought a home. In less than 2 heartbeats, she said YES! OH LORDY…what have we done? All of a sudden she is ready to up and sell the house and come right up! Sooooo…..to make a long story short, we committed to finding a house and getting off the road. We went back to our summer place and announced what we were doing….talk about shock, not only were we in that state, but everyone else was too.

We packed up the fiver and moved to Caldwell, ID two weeks ago and started hunting in earnest. We ended up looking at dozens and found one we really liked. Our offer was accepted and we are now homeowners…all in the space of four fast weeks! We should be moving in about two weeks. We will have a lot of preparation and purchases to make, number one will be a snowblower!. Number two is a huge generator to power essentials when the power goes out! New winter clothing…technology has changed since we have been in snow country…..

We will finally live another dream we have had forever….living in the mountains, by a lake. Fishing, boating, hiking, bicycling, snowshoeing, cross country skiing, snowmobiling…all are on the agenda. We will have room for company and hopefully our home will be full of cheer and good times. Our families are all eager to see where we are settling and are planning trips. My Mom is ready to come now, but we will have to wait a bit for that. She is planning on starting to get rid of things and getting the house ready to market.

Yes, ’tis true….the O’Keeffe road trip is nearing an end. We are a bit ambivilant but know this is the right thing to do. Family comes first and a new adventure begins. Send warm thoughts and we will continue our adventure….just down a different path.

Saving Money–The Wrong Way

A few posts back, I discussed the importance of using forged aluminum wheels as opposed to the less expensive, weaker cast aluminum wheels offered in the aftermarket and as standard equipment on some RV products. Almost as if to illustrate the point, a gentleman brought in a huge triple-axle fifth wheel trailer that had experienced a critical wheel failure. We’ve all heard of tire blowouts, but in this instance it was a wheel blowout; the explosion was so powerful, it blew the outside lip right off the wheel. He told me that the tire came off the rim completely and travelled down the highway. Read more

Some Class A Options May Be Overkill

There are many options that are available on a new coach today.  Most of them, we would probably all order if price was no object.  There are few, if any, that would rank as a “no buy”, regardless.  There is, however, one seemingly non-necessary option.  That is power tilt and telescopic steering.  This is usually accompanied with power foot pedal height adjustment.  Good grief!  Is this really necessary?   I, for one, would think not.

Manual tilt and telescopic comes with the majority of new cars as well as many motor homes.  When I think of it, in my cars and SUV’s through the years, it comes to mind that I never actually change the steering wheel height or angle, once it is set.  Oh, granted, when the wife or others drive them, the ability to adjust them is a benefit.  But, for these times manual adjusting works well.  So why power?  Isn’t this a little overkill?

As luck would have it, power tilt, telescopic and pedal adjustment were standard on the coach I bought in ‘07.    I assure you, at the time I certainly would not have bothered ordering such an item, even though I was bent on ordering every possible option.  The power package came standard with the memory preset feature.  This feature had three memory locations, each with a separate button numbered from “1″ to “3″.  Each memory selection is capable of storing, recalling and commanding positions for the driver seat, the outside power mirror positions and the steering wheel tilt/height and pedal height.  

Being that the motor coach was about 46,600 lbs. gvw and was equipped with air brakes, it is highly unlikely that my wife, or anyone else for that matter, would ever drive the vehicle.  So it would seem like a very poor option to buy, had it not been included as standard equipment.  

So, for openers, I set position number “1″ as the positions for all components exactly adjusted to my driving need.  I figured this would allow me to re-set my selections quickly in the event of someone, manually changing them.  This typically can happen during the servicing of the unit or having the company of a “fiddle-with-everything” guest. 

Once I got accustom to the rig, I found I was constantly adjusting the wheel, both tilt and height, to accommodate the turning of the driver seat to face the rear.  In my prior coach  I had manual tilt and telescopic, and found no issue in moving them to allow the turning of the seat.  So, at this stage it certainly seemed overkill to have them powered.

I did, however, find the frequency of the need to turn the front seats greatly increased.  This was due to the floor plan as compared to my previous coach.  In the earlier coach the TV was located in the front above the windshield, while the new one had a central located mid-ship TV.  With the mid-ship mounted television, the front seats were needed to be turned, even for an over night on-the-road stop, as it provides the best comfort and viewing.  

This led me to set memory position number “3″ for quick preset TV watching.  So once in camp, a mere touch of preset “3″, and the steering wheel tilt folds and telescopes into a store -like position.  Additionally, the seat automatically powers itself in the correct position to allow easy turning.  The next morning, I just turn the seat back to face forward, push of memory button, and it’s ready to roll.  Once the engine is running and the park brake is disengaged, the memory switches are deactivated, however power adjustment to wheel tilt, wheel height and pedal height can be adjusted by operating the three toggling switches located below the smart wheel control groups on both side of the wheel.  But, quite frankly, who changes adjustments on the wheel location while driving?  I know I certainly never do. 

This power feature is available on many new diesel powered rigs as an option.  Is it worth the heavy price tag?  In my opinion, probably not.  Certainly not if you don’t require your front seats turned to the rear with frequency.  After all, if it is only for relatively long stays, it’s not a big deal and quite fast to do it manually.  But for those that may have a mid-ship TV, it may prove beneficial.  It’s entirely up to you.

  

With A Different Tilt On Life    -     Lug_Nut     -      Peter Mercer

The $1,128,000,000 Campground

Airstream RV Blog #84 - The $1,128,000,000 Campground from Sean Michael on TheLongLongHoneymoon.com.

How valuable was this camping experience? We’ve been told that a half acre of land on the Las Vegas Strip recently sold for $47 million. And yet, here’s a massive swath of such land dedicated to a full hookup RV campground. So using these numbers as reference, I guess our little campsite is worth at least $5,000,000 — and the campground itself is worth around $1,128,000,000. Read more

The Last Word On Shocks, I Think.

The choice of shocks for your rig is as much as a science as is the choice of chocolate or vanilla ice cream. There are shocks out there for every desired ride and handling. The real problem is getting through the hype and mystique to be able to read the claims by the shock makers and then decide which one suits your needs and wants for a combination of ride and handling.

Mooney wrote, “I’ve had Bilsteins and Rancho’s, Rancho 9000’s worked much better.” The Ranchero shock is a unit that is desiged for the off road crowd. They are a very heavy duty unit but according to Ranchero the selection is limited to SUV’s and pick up trucks.

TX Brad commented, “Interesting: ’ Life no longer simple’ !
Like knowing what is available today on new RV’s, but also what is good for replacement on an older RV . What factors are needed in selecting a ‘good’ replacement shock. ie weight, length ( wheel base), # axels\wheels , class A vrs C ?  Thanks  TX Brad”.

Most of those are taken into account by the shock maker and then he applies his own philosophy of ride and handling to the mix. And yes there are great differences between shocks. Than said, a glowing endorsement by one rig owner of a particular brand may not give the ride and handling results that you are looking for. For example, I installed Rancheros on my Chevy Tahoe several years ago. They stayed on the Tahoe just over a week and then were replace by Monroe Sensamatics. The rancheos were just too hard a ride for the passenger car like ride that I desired on the Tahoe. But the Rancheos are on my Chevy 4 wheel drive diesel Pick up and I love them on that application.

Photoian took me a bit to task in his comment and rightly so, “As seems usual, your discussion is Class A oriented. What about fifth wheels?
How do one even know how the shocks perform when no one rides in it. Last year I had a recall on bearings and , while taking care of those, it was discovered that the shocks were shot. I had them replaced and then called Monroe, the mfgr, and asked if there were upgrades for my model of shock.
He told me the shocks I had were entry level shocks and recommended a gas-filled shock. I bought six (triple axle) for backup for our Alaska trip this year.
This week, in Prince George, BC, I had my brakes inspected and while doing that, I asked the mechanic to look at the shocks. He did and said they were fine. I told him about my past experience and he said the ones I bought were not necessarily an up grade but just another kind, gas filled instead of oil filled.
So I’m still in the dark about shocks.”

On a trailer with no one riding in it to check the ride, the best way to check shocks is a visual inspection. You check them for leaks, damage, and the integrety of the mounts. But just one little comment on your comment. Gas shocks are not gas filled. They still have fluid but the air that is normally in a shock that could mix with the fluid and cause a foaming of the fluid that would change the way the shock works. Instead of that the shock is topped off with an inert gas under pressure to reduce the foaming and make the shock work better. In some instances the gas is in a plastic envelope in the shock.

So, read the makers blurbs, listen to the folks that tell you that XYZ is the best brand since sliced bread, and try to make an intelligent choice. Till next week keep on camping.

Brad

Tow Cars and Towables – Part 3 – Bernice’s Tips

As the final post in my series, Tow Cars and Towables, I wrap up my tips related to towing a car. By following these tips, along with those given in Parts 1 and 2, you’ll find that towing can be very rewarding, and even save gas!

• When towing a car, follow the car manufacturer’s instructions. Sometimes you must stop at a rest area every 200 or so miles, start the engine, put it in gear in order to circulate the oil, and let it run a while. Also you may have a speed limit for towing your car such as 55 miles per hour. Some newer cars do not have these same limitations-you may drive 65 miles per hour and do not have to start the engine to circulate the oil.

• Take a test drive of your motorhome with the tow car attached before your trip. While you’re out, use the nearest truck scale to be sure the combined weight of the tow car and the motorhome does not exceed the gross combined vehicle weight (GCVW) recommended by your coach’s manufacturer.

• To hook up a tow car,

Choose a level spot. Unfold the tow bar from the front of the tow car. Lower the socket of the tow bar tongue onto the ball of the hitch at the rear of the motorhome. Fasten the safety chains between the two vehicles. Connect the tow car’s electrical system to the electrical outlet at the rear of the motorhome. Test the electrical connection. Use the turn signals and press down the brake pedal in the motorhome. Both sets of lights should work at the same time.

• Towing a car will actually save gas, since you won’t be using the motorhome for shorter trips.

• Believe it or not, you’ll soon forget the tow car is there except when you’re passing, parking, stopping quickly, or turning sharply. When passing, make sure both the motorhome and the tow car are completely clear before going back to your lane. When you pull into a rest area or parking lot, allow for the added length of the tow car.

Happy Towing!
Bernice Beard

Smart Wheel. Innovations In Steering Wheels

The Smart Wheel is a popular choice on many vehicles today, including many motor homes.  The term “Smart Wheel” is more a type rather than a brand.  It is more the term used for any steering wheel that contains multiple built-in switches and control devices.  But, today we will look at the Smart Wheel as it is on diesel pushers and mid engines that we have or see on many these motor coaches.

Read more

A last Minute Descision Before The Grand Adventure, Now Adding Solar!

We tend to do this to ourselves, make last minute decisions and then work frantically to make it happen. The ”add solar” decision was one that has been on the table for over a year, but only now acted on.  We dug out the records of last years cross country trip and looked at propane usage. We tend to boon-dock a lot and have found that our propane generator set is not the most efficient thing on the face of the earth. We figured that we run the generator between 2 and 4 hours a day when we only drive 250 miles a day. If we drive further then the generator usage goes down as there is more engine/alternator time to recharge the bank of house batteries. 2 hours use is 1 1/2 gallons of propane, at close to 4 bucks a gallon it comes out to 6 bucks a day times 180 days on the road boon-docking or a grand total of  $720. While $6 a day does not sound like much $720 is a respectable amount, and that is a minimum.  If we run the gen set closer to the 4 hours a day the cost could be $2800 for 180 days on the road.

So, with the numbers in hand we went shopping for a solar system to install on the roof of Rover. In the system we included a converter/inverter with a built in 100 amp battery charger, voltage regulators, wiring, and intallation material.  The cost was around $2500 delivered to the house.

The second step is batteries. Now here is where we lucked out. We have a battery powered golf cart with almost new batteries, six of them rated at 250 ampere hours each, and as we are not taking the golf cart with us on this trip, it is making a donation to the cause. That means that we will have 3 banks of a pair of 6 volt batteries putting out 12 volts at 750 ampere hours of power, plus the 8D heavy duty truck battery that currently supplies the coach power rated at 250 amere hours, or a total of 1000 ampere hours of 12 volt current available.

Even though the kit has not arrived yet work has begun. The batteries were removed from the golf cart and connected to a charger to top them off. The batteries are going in one of the compartments that used to hold tools. The tools have been transferred to the tool box that we installed on the car trailer last week. We have fabricated vents for the compartment as batteries give off hydrogen gas when being charged or discharged and that needs venting to prevent fires and explosions. The vents are so constructed that they will not allow water, splash from the road, when raining, to enter the compartment. The cables to connect the batteries to the existing circuits have been fabricated and are in the process of being installed. The battery hold down devices have been made and are waiting for the batteries to be installed tomorrow.

The hold downs for the batteries are important. One of the major causes of battery failure is when batteries are not tied down and bounce around. The shock of bouncing damages the plates in the battery and causes failure or internal shorts. So care was taken with the hold downs to be sure that they would secure the batteries properly.  The next concern is the weight of the batteries and where they are going. The compartment picked for the job is the one right behind the right rear wheel. This means that the right rear corner of the coach has just become 456 pounds heavier than it was before. This will certainly effect the rear wheel tire pressures but most of all could effect in a negative way the ride height of the coach.

To check this we will measure the ride height and record it. That will for these purposes be from the ground with the coach on a level surgface to the bottom of the rear bumper on each side. We will place the batteries in the compartment and then jump up and down on the rear bumper to settle the coach. Then measure again. Who knows we might have to find a better place for them or split them up.  Any difference more than an inch will make me rethink the position of the batteries.

Well next week we should have the system up and running and be able to tell you what probems we ran into along the way.

Till then, keep camping.

Brad & Lucy, and yes of course Kitty Kat Earl

3,000 Mile Oil Change – is it History?

For many years consumers have used the rule of thumb that you should change your engine oil every 3,000 miles for autos, trucks, and SUVs. Over the past several years there have been tests by various consumer and environmental advocacy groups that have found this to be a waste of money as well as harmful to the environment. In fact according to a recent study by the California Integrated Waste Management Board, 73 percent of California drivers change their oil more frequently than required.

The 3,000 mile oil change may have once been a good idea before the advance of technology that has greatly improved the ability of oil to stay cleaner longer as well as today’s engines that simply run cleaner. Oil doesn’t really break down but it becomes contaminated with microscopic metals from bearings, pistons and other points of friction as well as fuel and the worst enemy of all - water. There have been tests on commercial vehicles that have shown that there is no difference in engine wear when oil changes are pushed past the 3,000 mark and well into double or even triple that interval. Most auto manufacturers recommend 5,000, 7,500, or even 10,000 mile intervals under normal driving conditions. Of course “normal” is pretty subjective. If you are pulling a trailer for any appreciable amount of time, “normal” is no longer applicable and oil changes should be made at “severe” condition intervals.

But in any case make absolutely sure to follow the owners manual recommendations and keep a copy of receipts or record of service if you do your own oil changes. If you have a warranty or extended service contract and ever need to file a claim, you may find that your claim is denied if you can’t document proper preventative maintenance service. Good Sam Continued Service Plan has a maintenance log with tips to keep you vehicle running a long time. Send your name, address, and type of vehicle (tow vehicle or RV) to: CSP Maintenance Log, 2575 Vista Del Mar Drive, Ventura CA 93001 for a free copy.

This article was brought to you by Good Sam RV Emergency Road Service

RV vs. Hotel - Which is Better?

RV vs. Hotel! from Sean Michael on TheLongLongHoneymoon.com.

Being travel enthusiasts, my wife and I have stayed everywhere from flea-infested hostels, to skanky motels, to cozy bed & breakfasts, to five-star resorts. I’d like to think we’ve learned something about hotels, and how they compare vis-a-vis RVs. So let’s ponder the timeless question: “What’s better, staying in an RV or in a hotel?”
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