Forget Oil! The Future is in Electricity

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By Bob Difley
A lot of experts and theoretical think tanks are looking at ways to quickly and drastically reduce our oil requirements, rather than pursuing ways to increase supply to meet demand with unpopular options like increased drilling in places like ANWR and the continental shelf. They are suggesting that we instead put our efforts into producing most if not all of our energy needs from domestic sources.

• No to foreign oil.
• No to war with foreign nations to stabilize their shaky governments and whose oil we want.
• No deals with disruptive, threatening, unfriendly, and unstable governments and rulers just so we can buy their oil.
• No to competing with China and India for oil, whose exploding economies have them gobbling up all the oil they can buy from any source at any price.
• No more oil tanker spills.
• Reduction of CO2 emissions and air pollution.

A pipe dream?

Read more

Practical Motor Home Inverter Applications

Two weeks ago week we looked at the type of inverters commonly used in motor homes.  This week we will touch on applications of inverters in our home on wheels.   We will deal with integrated types only, generally these are 2,000 watt output and larger.  We will also focus only at the inverter operation, not the charger function. 

 

The inverter basically takes 12 volt direct current from the batteries and inverts it to 120 volts alternating current, similar to that in your house. 

 

 In doing this, it produces either a M.S.W. (Modified Sine Wave) or a T.S.W. (True Sine Wave) depending on the make and model.  Modified types are the cheaper of the two to produce, and are the ones found currently on the majority of motor homes today.  True sine types are becoming far more popular recently.  This is due to lower prices recently and more sine wave affected electronics that are being introduced into today’s modern coaches.

 

The inverter in a standard configured propane equipped motor home is generally wired to power the following.

• TV’s, receivers and entertainment centers
• Most duplex 120 outlets
• Microwave
• Awnings, if 120 VAC (Such as Gerard)
• Refrigerator (If 120 volt AC)
• Ice maker (If 120 volt AC)

The balance of AC powered loads such as air conditioners, hot water tank, electric stoves and of course, battery chargers only operate on shore power. 

Some microwave models can be damaged if used to cook using a modified wave inverter.  This damage can result in causing the efficiency to drop substantially after continued use.  While wiring the inverter to the microwave outlet is normal, which at least keeps the clock on time, it may be wise to run the generator for any microwave cooking while boondocking.  This applies to M.S.W. inverters, but is not applicable to T.S.W. installations.  Additionally, some models of modern residential refrigerators may be susceptible to modified sine wave inverter current.  The issue is control board related.   This primarily affects newer all electric coaches.  These really require a true sine wave inverter to assure trouble free operation.

Inverters in conventional propane equipped motor coaches are generally turned off when not required, particularly if dry camping.  This is due to a continuing draw, albeit light, of electric current, even if all loads are off.  First, there is a search mode that essentially searches for a load, even in stand-by mode.  Secondly, TV’s, microwave readouts and many modern receivers use power in the “off” mode.  The TV’s and receivers remain on stand-by to be instant “on”.

Inverters in all electric coaches are generally always left on.  This is required as the refrigerator, if it is a residential type, is 120 volt AC only.  Inverters can be left on even when connected to shore power.  Once connected, the unit shuts down the inverter and operates as a charger and will automatically take over in the event of a power disruption.

Now, as if the inverter/charger didn’t do enough, there are models available with a built-in automatic generator starting board.   These will automatically start and stop the generator as required to keep the batteries within operating voltage range.  Additionally, the auto start can be wired to the air conditioning thermostat and provide instant start should the temperature within the coach rise above a user preset value.  Once the temperature is within the set temperature range, it will automatically shut the generator down until the next event.

If you have never had a coach with an inverter/charger, you don’t know what you are missing.  The convenience of having household power without the need for continually running the genset, is well worth the costs involved.  If you already have an inverter equipped coach, you probably wouldn’t have a coach without one again.

 With A Current Alternate View      -       Lug_Nut

 

Choosing An Inverter/Charger

So far as motorized recreational vehicles, there are two duty types of inverters used. Stand alone and integrated inverter/chargers. Stand alone units are relatively low wattage output units that are individually wired to operate a single load like a television and perhaps a satellite receiver. The inverter/charger is an integrated part of the electrical and charging system of the unit. The inverter in this case serves two purposes. First it is the main battery charger, at least while either an outside source or generator is supplying AC power. Secondly, it is an inverter that supplies AC power when none is available. Once AC power is absent, the inverter automatically takes over, providing it is in the armed mode state. It is normally wired to operate necessary functions within reasonable wattage like T.V’s, receivers, duplex outlets, refrigerators (if an all electric coach), ice makers and perhaps microwaves.

There are two output configurations available, M.S.W. (Modified Sine Wave) and T.S.W. (True Sine Wave). All smaller or cheaper inverters are M.S.W. Most motor home inverters are also currently M.S.W. The exception of this would be higher end units and newer all electric coaches, most of which are equipped with T.S.W. output inverters. So what are the operational differences?

M.S.W. gets it name from exactly what it sounds like. It is a modified look-a-like wave. However it is more “square” than the smooth sweeping frequency lines that are created with a true sine wave. These inverters are cheaper to buy but function well in most applications. There are however, loads it does not work with or properly with. Those loads are, but are not limited to, many small power chargers, electronic boards found in many appliances, most microwaves, 120 volt A.C. powered clocks and full featured cappuccino makers. Some of these will not operate and some may be damaged over time with continued use.

T.S.W. power resembles that of home supplied hydro. It is capable of operating any like voltage load providing it does not exceed its output capacity. These units are now to a price level making them the best choice for future use.

So, if you are ordering a new coach, or replacing or upgrading to an inverter charger, should this be a “must have”? In my opinion, it is. The benefits far out weigh the now small price difference. If you own a coach that has a M.S.W. inverter charger, like most do, don’t worry. Your coach was equipped to exist with such a wave form and should do fine. But, just remember, if you were to order a new rig or ever it has to be replaced, go T.S.W. You won’t regret it.

On Sunday the 13th of july, we will be looking at “Practical RV Inverter Applications”.  I sure hope you can join us.

 Just Reading The Sines - Lug_Nut  -  Peter Mercer

Is There an Electric Toad in Your Future?

By Bob Difley
How close are we to an electric vehicle? A bit far, I suspect, for motorhomes or trucks powerful enough to pull trailers and fivers, but maybe not as far for a toad. GM has pulled out all the stops for the Volt PHEV (plug-in hybrid electric vehicle) due out in the spring of 2009. Read more

RV Today Archive - Product Showcase - Portable Power

Follow Stew Oleson on his presentation of a Xantrex Power Pack 400. Versatile and very useful on the road, this unit is an inverter and a battery source for jumpstarting your car; its 400 watt inverter will allow you to run your computer, small power tools and fans among other appliances. It will power your camcorder and videogames and can charge your cellular phone. This compact system has additional functionalities: use as an emergency light or a flashlight, to inflate a ball (or even a tire in an emergency), as a radio, etc. Watch the video below for a detailed description:

Note: The price mentioned in the video may have changed. Check with Xantrex for an updated price and newer products.

More episodes of the RV Today show archives -product showcase, quick tips and destinations episodes- to be added soon.

How to Check for a Blown Fuse

It’s all relative!

In several posts we have talked about measuring voltage with reference to a fixed point, or relative to a fixed point. This is an essential concept to understand if you are going to use a voltmeter to measure any kind of voltage. I used the analogy of a distance from home. While we have compared voltage in the past with pressure, in this case we compare it to distance from a fixed point. Both comparisons work, but in this case it is easier to understand the distance comparison.

Let’s look at a practical example of this to better understand why we do it. A very common component in an electrical system is a fuse.

Fuses work to protect electrical circuits by “blowing” if they experience an overcurrent situation, meaning more amps flow through the fuse than the fuse is rated for. When this happens, the fuse “opens” and current can no longer flow because of the open circuit. The fuse now has infinite resistance. Our job is to use our multimeter to find the blown fuse. In order to do this the easiest check is with a voltmeter. I have reasons for saying this and we will talk more about this later, for now, just accept this concept too. In order to check for a blown fuse, you should pick a spot that is your “anchor” or starting point. Typically in an RV electrical system, and when checking for a blown fuse in the 12 volt DC system, the anchor point is “ground“. Ground in an RV is usually the frame of the vehicle. This is because the negative post of the RV battery is connected directly to the frame. Connect one of your meter leads to ground. Again, this may be easier said than done because there is a lot more plastic in RVs than there is metal. I usually try to find a big bolt that holds large metal pieces together. After you connect one meter lead to ground you are ready to check voltages. Find a fuse holder with a fuse in it and check the voltage on each pin of the fuse. You should EXPECT to read somewhere around 12 volts DC at each pin. Now remove the fuse from the fuse holder. This simulates a blown fuse. Now when you check both pins of the fuse holder, you will find that one pin will have the expected 12 volts DC, but the other pin will read 0 volts DC. This is exactly the check you will make to find a blown fuse.
Take time to practice this technique and we will talk more about it later. Until then, have fun camping.

Larry

Using your Multimeter - Part 3

Hopefully you have all been practicing with your new multimeters and nobody has gotten hurt doing it. In our last post about using your meter I suggested checking the voltage at a normal residential outlet. With your meter on AC volts you should measure somewhere around 115 to 120 volts AC. This is what you would EXPECT to read. If you get it, that is normal and if you get something very different from that, you are getting an incorrect reading. The important point here is that when you set out to make some kind of electrical measurement, you should have some idea of what to expect. This way you will know if something is wrong. Having an idea what to expect is a very important concept when troubleshooting electrical systems.

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Time to check your batteries

I think that spring has finally arrived here in Ohio.  It seemed for a while that winter would never end as the cold weather continued almost through May.  However, it has been in the high 80s and low 90s with lots of sunshine, and what else do you need to get your camping fever going.

Since we are all planning a lot of RV trips this summer, this might be a good time to make sure our RV batteries are ready also.  I only mention this because when I checked mine today, that was not the case.  I figured I would check the water level and that would be it.  Instead it turned into a major project that took most of the afternoon.  I don’t have photos of my batteries, but this is an example of what I saw when I looked into the battery compartment:

The white, or green corrosion is a chemical reaction caused by the sulphuric acid in the battery.  It is dangerous, and can deteriorate the battery, the connectors, and the hold down bracket.  All in all, corrosion should be taken care of pronto.

In my motorhome I have a total of 6 batteries.  There are four 6VDC batteries which provide power for the coach facilities such as lights and entertainment.  In addition there are two 12VDC batteries which provide power to start the engine.  The coach batteries had several corroded connections and the battery hold down bracket was also corroded.

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Solar Power - Pt-2 Inverters

Howdy !

OK, now I know that everyone completed their power requirements worksheets so now we can talk about the size and type of power support system we are going to need to operate all that equipment. First let’s figure out the operating cycle of the inverter. All the duty cycle means is how long the inverter system is expected to operate. For example, if we want to run all our loads for 12-hours out of 24-hours the duty cycle will be 50%. Now let’s look at typical loads.

For example, if the load includes a small television and VCR or DVD , the power requirements are relatively small and the usage is usually short-term (i.e. the duty cycle is low). The support system may consist of the engine battery, whether from a tow vehicle or a motorhome, with one auxiliary deep-cycle battery, the existing engine alternator, and the necessary fuses and cables. With such limited power usage the batteries alone may be able to power the loads without running the vehicle engine and recharging them from the alternator. Ah, one thing to remember here, if you lump the starting battery into the power supply bank you may not have enough “Umph” to get the dang engine to start !

Now, if the loads are larger, such as lights, heater elements for a refrigerator or water heater , or even a standard RV microwave, the power supply system will require a larger battery bank and may necessitate a high output engine alternator, solar panels or even a stinky ol’ generator. The batteries alone cannot supply long-term power to loads like these. Ultimately, the energy must come from someplace other then just the batteries.

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Solar Power for your RV?

What’s the Fuss About Solar ?!

Howdy !

Looking at the questions asked about the solar power articles that I’ve done for rv magazines and on this BLOG it seems to me that solar power is somewhat misunderstood because we don’t have the information to provide real answers.

Here is the most common question:

Q.     What does it cost to put solar on a RV ??

A.     How much have ya got ?!

This is the most common question and the hardest to answer because there is no real way to answer it. It’s kinda like the chicken or the egg type question. The first thing you must know before we can even begin to get to the bottom of this one is - how much power do you need ?  We start by completing the power sizing chart to determine how much power we use.  To make this work we really do need to add-up ALL the devices we have in the RV, both 12-Volt DC and 120-Volt AC.  Let’s assume that we are designing a solar driven power system of solar panels, an inverter for 120 Volts AC, a battery bank and the needed controllers, cables and so on to make it all work.

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