AC Power Line Problems – a Mystifying Menace, Part 2

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As you may remember from Part 1, I was discussing “power line problems”. The list of disturbances listed are all transients, but what are transients? Read on…

Transient: any short-term power disturbance on the power line. All the disturbances listed in part 1 are transient by definition. Transients can either be oscillatory, varying consistently with the frequency, or they can be of the impulse variety.

Oscillatory transients are usually caused by:

            * Lightning strikes - the most common cause of spikes and surges. Lightning is most common and most severe during the summer months, though lightning has even been observed during snow storms! Lightning strikes can render sophisticated electronics in the RV useless or operationally intermittent. In either case, costly. Surprisingly, lightning does not need to strike nearby to reap havoc. A storm miles away could induce spikes that can ultimately reach your campsite pedestal. Lightning between clouds, never directly striking power lines or phone lines, will create large magnetic fields that can also cause surges and spikes in your equipment.

            * Utility grid switching - your friendly power utility company can be responsible for creating spikes and surges simply by switching high power distribution lines. Power lines can also pick up transients from power company operating equipment.

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AC Power Line Problems – a Mystifying Menace, Part 1

We’ve all heard the stories; a roof top air conditioner bogs down and trips the breaker; a television set image is suddenly reduced to a much smaller viewing image; your neighbor plugs his coach into the campground and your microwave oven quits in mid-cycle; reports of a lightning storm in the next county are followed by the lights inside your coach all of a sudden become very, very bright. I could go on, but I think most of you get the idea. The fact is, there are a myriad of electrical problems equally available to all RVers in virtually every corner of North America at any given time in any season. Collectively known as “power line problems,” individually they create a palette of dilemmas that we must be aware of and hopefully protect against.

Why? Quantum leaps in RV electrical technology over the years has resulted in many components in our coaches now being controlled by electronic boards and microprocessors. Additionally, the  e-mail form of communications (and blogs, obviously) have well-permeated the general RVing public. Fax/modem applications, CATV (cable TV), connections and on-board telephone connections are quite common. There exists many “smart” devices controlling everything from RV washing machines and battery chargers to VCRs and microwave ovens. Face it, we are firmly entrenched in the microprocessor and electronic age of RVing. Now with the push of a single button you can even deploy a full-length patio awning, or extend a room addition, all using electronically controlled circuitry. Power line problems are no longer just a concern for the computer industry.

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5 Ways to Assist the RV Service Facility - Part 3

Previously we’ve looked at four of the five ways you can assist your service shop. To recap, they are:

1. Record All Identifying Numbers
2. Organize a Repair History of the RV
3. List All Add-on Components
4. Look for the Obvious

Here in Part III we reveal the fifth and final way you can actually save repair dollars by assisting your service shop before they even begin work on your RV. The final tip is to:

5. Document the Exact Specifics of the Symptom

Of these five tips, this is probably the most valuable, however, this one takes a little more effort on your part. Ready? Whenever a symptom develops, begin to write down specific aspects that pertain to it. For instance, does the problem occur every time? Only at night? When the tank is full? Only after start-up? Only after shut-down? Only when it’s hot outside? Get the idea?

Also note any and all geographical attributes at the time of the occurrence; high elevation, near the beach, steep incline, hot and dusty, at the lake, desert, mountains, etc. Some symptoms may be peculiar to one of these areas that will help the tech pin-point the problem source, or at least narrow the scope of his search. Remember, these efforts are in your best interest.

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5 Ways to Assist the RV Service Facility - Part 2

In Part I, we took a hypothetical RV excursion only to experience a generator problem. So we entered a local RV service shop only to sit there and wait, and wait and wait while the service department tried to diagnose the problem. Of the five ways to assist your RV service shop, we explored the first method, Recording All Identifying Numbers.

Here in Part II we’ll outline three more ideas that just could save your shop time while making necessary repairs. Ready?

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5 Ways to Assist the RV Service Facility - Part 1

Things you can do to make your visit to the service shop less stressful
and enable your down-time to be as brief as possible.

Has this ever happened to you? Maybe not this specific problem, but this scenario in general. You’re on the third day of that much anticipated and much needed vacation trip when, out of the blue, while stopped for breakfast, you realize your generator will not start. No problem, you say, there’s an RV repair shop just two miles back.In Part I of this three part series, let’s extrapolate and explore the above scenario a little deeper:

So you decide to return to that service center. As you pull into the service drive, another coach pulls in behind you. You explain your problem to the service writer, sign the repair order, proceed to the customer waiting area, (aptly named), grab a cup of coffee and wait. And wait, and wait and wait. Then after that, you wait still longer.

As you audibly, (it seems), hear your vacation clock ticking away, you finally come to realize the coach that had pulled in behind you is long gone as are all the rigs that pulled in behind him. You catch a quick reflection of yourself as you pass by the glass-walled service office and wonder when you grew that beard. And just who is that older woman with you anyway? You glance out and see your generator in, what appears to be, hundreds of pieces scattered around the service bay. You swallow hard and shudder. Finally, at about closing time, the service manager informs you your coach is ready. “Funny,” he says, “It was just a loose wire behind the dash switch.”

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Odor Control in Your RV - Part 5 - Evacuation

In part 1, part 2, part 3 and part 4 of this series of posts I’ve discussed how venting, additives, waste component systems, and holding tank blockages can play a role in odor control in your RV. Today, I’ll discuss the actual procedures for dumping your tanks.

Correct Evacuation Procedures

1. Always wear disposable protective gloves.

When handling any waste system component, always wear throwaway latex or rubber gloves and be sure to wash your hands thoroughly afterwards. No need to take undue risks.

2. Connect the sewer hose to the termination outlet and the sewer inlet.

Unless you are equipped with Phase Four’s Waste Master system with its permanently installed hose and nozzle, you’ll need to remove the sewer cap and attach the sewer hose adapter. Make sure the seals are in good shape. Inspect the seal on the cap and the adapter periodically. Seals are easily replaced so there is no excuse for having dripping hose connections.I recommend using a clear sewer adapter at the hose connection or a clear fitting at the sewer inlet in order to check the cleanliness of the water as you flush each tank after evacuation. Be sure you have the correct elbow adapters on hand to securely affix the bitter end (open end) of the hose into the park’s sewer inlet. No leaks allowed here either!

Keep in mind there is no standard size sewer inlet mandated for RV parks or dump sites; you’ll find everything from 3-inch to 4-inch to even 5-inch or larger inlets. Be prepared! Do not just simply stick the open end of the hose down the sewer inlet allowing tank odors and park septic odors to escape. Also, use the shortest sewer hose as possible. Do not use that 20-footer for a 6-foot run and have it snake back and forth between the coach and the sewer inlet. (This is why I recommend the Sewer Master hose… extend it only as far as you need!) And be sure to maintain the proper slope of the drain hose. Remember water and waste cannot flow uphill!

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Odor Control in your RV - Part 4 - Tank Blockages

In part 1, part 2, and part 3 of this series of posts I’ve discussed how venting, additives, and waste component systems can play a role in odor control in your RV. Today, we move on to holding tank blockages.

Many experts recommend frequent flushing of the holding tanks with vast amounts of fresh water to help rid them of odors. I usually agree with this tact, except for the fact it quite often wastes precious water; a commodity that must be conserved, especially when dry camping.

The main reason for frequent rinsing is obviously to eliminate (or minimize) those pesky holding tank blockages, predominantly in the black, toilet tank. That’s why we all know to leave the black tank valve shut until ready for evacuation (more on this later).

But to totally eliminate holding tank blockages and to rid the tank itself of most odors I recommend finding a dealer for All Pro Water-Flow.

All Pro-Water-Flow uses a patented, rotating high pressure delivery nozzle that forces water onto virtually every square inch inside the holding tank, including all in-tank monitor panel sensors; (ever had inaccurate readings on your monitor panel?). Only with extremely high water pressure provided by this hydro-cleaning process can all sludge be completely removed. Fiber optic camera shots (at right) show the interior of a holding tank before and after an All Pro treatment.

Performed annually, all holding tank blockages can now be eliminated. And remember, the cleaner the tank, the less likely odors will proliferate.

Now that you’ve been introduced throughout this series to some of my favorite products and services regarding RV waste systems, I’ll move on next week to the actual procedures for dumping those tanks.

Gary Bunzer, The RV Doctor

Odor Control in Your RV - Part 3 - System Components

In part 1 and part 2 of this series of posts I discussed how venting and additives can play a role in odor control in your RV. This week I tackle some waste system components that also play a role, and discuss some products I’ve found to assist.

We’ve all experienced the negative aspects of evacuating the holding tanks. We’ve all had to contend with the nasty job of attaching the sewer hose, connecting it to the dump station (somehow), and then dumping each holding tank by yanking on a cable or T-handle (both of which have the propensity to break or wear out eventually - typically at the most inopportune moment, right?). And then somehow flush out the hose without getting waste on the ground and then try to find a location to store it well away from anything else, yuck! Isn’t there an easier way? Yes!

Phase Four Industries is one of those leading edge companies that is always searching for a better method of coping with what most RVers believe to be the least enjoyable aspect of RVing, dumping the tanks.

One of their first products was an electric gate valve called Drain Master. With the push of a button from inside the comforts of the RV, holding tank evacuation can be a clean and sanitary act. The full-way 3-inch Drain Master electric valve easily replaces all standard four-bolt termination valves found on any RV. It is powered by 12-volts DC and installation is easy. Adapters are available for the smaller 1-1/4″ or 1-1/2″ gray water termination valves. Though these smaller valves are legal, I feel they actually contribute to the proliferation of gray tank odors and false monitor panel readings. It is my opinion it would benefit every segment of the RV industry if manufacturers choose instead to use only 3-inch outlets on both gray and black holding tanks. RVers would benefit by realizing a quicker exit flow rate during evacuations. Tests have proven that faster dumping sequences will increase the flushing action resulting in all waste being quickly washed away rather than having them slowly recede down the tank walls and trickle through a smaller opening. Thankfully many RV manufacturers have now adopted this as common practice.

By the way, each Drain Master valve is equipped with a manual override in case battery power is lost.

Another fine product I recommend from Phase Four is the Sewer Master. This state of the art sewer hose is like no other on the market. It is made from 20-mil polypropylene, not vinyl. How many pinholes have you seen in a relatively new vinyl hose? No other hose is as strong or as durable. And it’s repairable too. This one won’t get tossed out the second week into your trip. One unique feature is its inherent memory; no need to struggle with a floppy, accordion-like vinyl hose. This one can be extended only as far as need be. Bend graceful turns and it stays in place. If you only need eight feet to reach the sewer inlet, just extend it that far. Sewer Master is available in 12-foot or 25-foot lengths. And they’re guaranteed for one year.

Here’s another product I really like from Phase Four, the Waste Master. I’ve long felt RV manufacturers have given us the “short end of the stick” by not supplying a safe, clean, positive shut-off method of connecting the RV sewer hose to the sewer inlet in the campground. Well, the Waster Master system takes care of that dilemma.

The Waste Master hose (available up t0 25-feet in length) is permanently attached to the termination assembly (retro-fit bayonet adapters are available). This eliminates the need to waste copious amounts of fresh water rinsing out the hose after dumping. With a positive shut-off at the nozzle and a positive shut-off at each termination valve, there is never a mess to contend with, or odors emanating from a filthy, open-ended hose jammed into a storage compartment. A compartment oftentimes not even sealed from the interior of the coach. Every little bit helps! My recommended set-up includes Drain Master electric valves on each tank coupled with the Waste Master 1, Part #5525, which contains the Sewer Master hose and the permanently attached nozzle. The Waste Master system is adaptable to any coach with a large enough water bay to store the hose and nozzle. And remember, because it is a closed system, there is no odor potential. Other, more elaborate systems are also available as well.

That’s it for this week. Next week in I’ll discuss Holding Tank Blockages and a product I recommend to help with those.

Until later,
Gary Bunzer, The RV Doctor

Odor Control in Your RV - Part 2 - Additives

Last week I discussed in part 1 of this series on odor control in your RV how venting can alleviate some issues.

This week I am tackling additives.

One fine product I’ve tested and recommended for years is RM Tank Care manufactured by Tri-Synergy, Inc.

RM Tank Care was a the forefront of the development of the, now very popular, enzyme-based, bacteria-infused holding tank additives.

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Odor Control in your RV - Part 1 - Venting

Holding tank odors are a definite problem experienced by the vast majority of RVers. But there is good news; relief is available! By following correct waste management practices, checking for proper venting and by using a few aftermarket products I recommend you can all but eliminate and certainly minimize those dreadful odors that seemingly plague us all.

First, fully realize that odors can originate in either the black water or the gray water holding tank. Foul odor is not limited to the toilet tank only!

That said, let’s take a look at a few areas within the RV waste system.

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