Hydraulic Stabilizing Jack Troubleshooting:
May 13, 2009 by Fred Brandeberry · 4 Comments
Hydraulic Stabilizing Jack Troubleshooting: 1. System does not work, no lights illuminated on the control panel: Check the following: Is the ignition switch in the Run position; is the transmission in Park; if more than 4 hours has elapsed – turn the ignition switch off, then on again to reset. 2. Pump does not run and the jacks do not extend: Check the following: The control panel – Touch pad fuse is blown or there is insufficient fluid in the reservoir. 3. The pump runs, but jacks do not extend: Check the following: Check the 12 VDC fuse in the touch pad – Control panel. 4. If only one jack will not extend, and the others not. Check the following: Check the 12 VDC fuse in the touch pad – Control panel. 5. All of the jacks fail to retract: Check the following: Check the 12 VDC fuse in the touch pad – Control panel. 6. Not all of the jacks retract: Check the following: Check the retractor springs on those jacks that do not retract. 7. If the “Jacks Down” fail to go out when the jacks are retracted: check the following: The fluid level in the reservoir is low. 8. While traveling down the road, the ‘Jacks Down” light flashes and the jacks are fully retracted: The fluid level in the reservoir is low. Caution: use the Manufacturer’s recommended fluid. Happy Camping Fred b. Read More →
RV Generator Troubleshooting Tips
May 4, 2009 by Fred Brandeberry · 39 Comments
GENERATOR TROUBLESHOOTING: Caution – Servicing a generator can create hazards – burns, cuts, fire and shock hazards. Exhaust fumes can be harmful. Notes: Gasoline powered generators are fed from a midpoint on your main fuel tank. Most generator manufacturers recommend a minimum of one hour loaded run time per month to prevent carburetor gumming. Generator will not crank: No 12 volt power or 12 volt fuse located on the control panel blown.The battery voltage should be above 9.5 VDC. Possible bad control board or poor wiring connections. Generator will not start, but cranks: Poor 12 volt power from battery or convertor, bad cables or corroded battery posts, gasoline tank not full enough, carburetor clogged from disuse, spark plugs fouled, automatic choke linkage stuck, faulty oil pressure switch, dirty air filter, low oil level, damaged wiring, or corrosion on the control board. Generator starts, then fails to run: Low oil level or low oil pressure, Low fuel supply, press the prime switch the recommend length of time, sticky choke linkage, or check the generator AC voltage output. Other voltage tests require an Operating Manual, Troubleshooting charts and learned personnel. Contact you generator dealer or manufacturer for further information. Online websites are an excellent source of information. Happy Camping, Fred b. Read More →
Slides – Taking Proper Care Pays Off:
April 28, 2009 by Fred Brandeberry · 2 Comments
SLIDE ROOMS – Preventative Maintenance and Troubleshooting: Slide will not move in or out: Ignition switch not in run position; Start engine to provide power; Transmission not in neutral; Parking brake not set; Low 12 volt power; Blown 12 volt fuse; Slides not fully in or out; or maybe a faulty slide mechanism. Concerns – Electric Slide Outs: Motor/gear box can go bad. It can shear drive pins in main gear drive mechanism. Motor can become overloaded (excessive amp draw) from the dragging of the slides. Read more Read More →
Fifth Wheel Trailer Checklist. RV-1 Author Lester Evans offers:
April 21, 2009 by Fred Brandeberry · 17 Comments
Storage site Departure & Hitching Trailer to Truck: 1. Position truck a few feet in front of trailer. 2. Move truck mirrors to the OUT position for trailer towing. 3. Lower truck tailgate. 4. Remove & stow trailer wheel covers. 5. Verify all trailer interior lights are OFF. Read more Read More →
Save Electricity – Replace your Water Heating Element
April 14, 2009 by Fred Brandeberry · 9 Comments
Use caution – only a qualified technician should accomplish the following procedures. Electrical and LP gas safety issues are involved. Your 120 volt heating element will use 10 to 12 amps of power. Our recommended heating element will use 3 to 4 amps. Yes, your water heater will not heat up as fast, but you can use the LP gas heat at the same time as the electric. Remove the 120-volt, 1440-watt heating element and replace it with a 236-volt, 1440-watt element. This replacement will look just like your 120-volt element. Ace Hardware, True-Value Hardware, Lowe’s and Home Depot should be able to supply the element you wan for about $10. Check the condition of your anode, if you have one, flush the water heater tank while you are there. Magnesium anodes work better than zinc or aluminum. If 50% of your anode is gone, replace it. Atwood brand water heaters do not require an anode. Their tanks are porcelain lined. If you are qualified: Disconnect the 120-volt power from the water heater; better yet unplug your rig from the pedestal. Your convertor will provide 12 volt DC power if not disabled. Turn of the LP gas at the tank. Disconnect the volt DC power – best done by disconnecting the wire(s) from the negative post of the coach batteries. Run water through the hot water faucet until the heater tank is cold. Turn off the water to the rig at the pedestal. Open the hot water faucets to release the pressure from the hot water tank. Do not open the pressure relief valve... Read more
RV FURNACE TROUBLESHOOTING – DSI Only
April 10, 2009 by Fred Brandeberry · 2 Comments
My RV Furnace does not work. Electronic Ignition Models only – DSI Only qualified technicians should work on RV furnaces. If you are not qualified to work on this appliance please do not do so. Safety First. We have tried to list the things that should be checked first before a technician is contacted. We also list some of the problems the technician might find. A. The blower does not run: 1. 12 Volt Power below 10.5 volts and a maximum of 13.5 volts. Measure the voltage at the furnace and confirm proper voltage. 2. Thermostat contacts dirty – clean the contacts with a business card. Hold the business card between the contacts and drag in thru the contacts. 3. Thermostat on/off switch is bad. – Replace the on/off switch. 4. Shorted or broken wires from the circuit board to the thermostat. Replace or repair the broken/shorted wires. 5. Bad thermostat – replace the thermostat. CAUTION: Do not to attempt to short out the thermostat wire for a test, you will damage the thermostat. 6. Bad ground or broken wires. – Repair broken wire or repair the ground. 7. Bad thermostat relay – replace thermostat relay. 8. Bad time delay relay – replace time delay relay. 9. Blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker – Reset breaker and change the fuse with the same size fuse. The cause most be found if we have repeated fuse and... Read more
Direct Ignition Water Heater Fixes
March 31, 2009 by Fred Brandeberry · 3 Comments
NO HOT WATER – What to do first – Which of these problems appear to happen while looking at your water heater: A, B, C D, E, F OR G? Then check you water heater in the order shown. Follow this list of symptoms and check for these solutions before calling the RV repairperson. I like Dinosaur brand circuit boards. A. WATER HEATER LOCK OUT – SPARK PRESENT BUT NO GAS FLAME: 1. Low voltage Power supply 10.5 VDC or more. 2. No gas to solenoid valve. Turn on LP gas at the tank. 3. Loose wires to ECO Repair wire connections. 4. Loose wires on solenoid valve. Repair wire connection. 5. Loose valve wire in wiring harness. Repair edge/ harness connections 6. Blocked main burner tube. Clean out burner tube. 7. Blocked main burner orifice. Clean or replace orifice. 8. Dirty connector on circuit board. Clean edge connector. 9. Defective ECO. Replace ECO. 10. Defective circuit board. Replace circuit board. 11. Defective solenoid valve. Replace valve or coil. 12. Gas pressure to high or to low. Set LP pressure @ 11’ water Column with at least two gas appliances working. B. WATER HEATER LOCKS OUT – LP GAS PRESENT, BUT NO SPARKING: 1. Dirty electrodes. Clean the electrodes. 2. Improper electrode gap Spark gap should be 1/8 inch. 3. Wire loose in electrode ceramic. Replace electrode. 4. High tension lead wire loose. Repair connection on circuit board 5. Loose electrodes on burner. Secure the electrodes. 6. Cracked ceramic on electrodes. Replace electrode. 7. Defective circuit board. Replace... Read more
Poor Man’s Voltage Tester
March 25, 2009 by Fred Brandeberry · 5 Comments
POOR MAN’S VOLTAGE TESTER A NEON lamp will not light-up above 105 volts. We use neon night lights in our RV to detect low voltage in our rig. We try to stay above 107 volts, and below 130 volts. We have four circuits in our rig that we monitor. The bath, kitchen, bedroom and living area. Lowe’s, Home Depot, Ace Hardware and True Value hardware stores can special order the Neon NiteLite Value Pack of two lights. Amerelle’s part number is 71050. We also have found this item online. Any NEON light will serve this purpose. After freight charges, we pay around $10 for two packs of two. Other brands are also available. After 8 years 3 out of 4 of these lamps are still working well. Walmart is selling digital voltmeters at a discount in Cottonwood, AZ. – $40 for a item worth $60. Happy Camping, Fred b. Rv101byfred.com Read More →
Campground Memberships
March 18, 2009 by Fred Brandeberry · 23 Comments
Twenty years ago I spoke with an RV’er in Branson, MO. He said he owned 13 different campground memberships, that way he would keep his camping costs low. He and his wife are full-time Rvers. We went home and listed all of these Campground Membership directories onto a spreadsheet. We listed each membership along with the memberships that park recognized. After a sorting process, we found 85% of these parks could be accessed with four different memberships. Then we placed these parks on a mapping program, similar to Microsoft Streets & Trips. With two years of planned trips in front of us, we looked to see if any membership parks were located in the areas we intended to visit. The average camper night this past year was around $24 a night. So we compared the cost of nightly visits, with and without membership camping. Could we save money in these area using membership campgrounds and keep our mileage down to save fuel. We intended to stay the longest time available to us at each park, and not travel more than 150 miles on a move day. We listed Coast-to-Coast, Good Neighbor, AOR, CAN, RPI, Thousand trails, Resorts of Distinction, Passport, Enjoy America, NACC, Sunrise and Sunbelt. You will find other discount chains as well. Using Thousand Trails, with park-to-park privledges, Resorts of Distinction parks, Coast-to-Coast and Passport; we paid $600 total camping costs in 2006. We stayed west of the continental divide during that time. Our upfront campground membership... Read more
Come – Hook up with Fred
March 10, 2009 by Fred Brandeberry · Leave a Comment
RV101byFred POEM I come to you with this tale of woe, How some people Hook UP their RV, OH, OH, OH< NO, NO, No. The Circuit Breaker, they do not find, He Plugs it in and Sparks go Flying, and does he see the Gunk on the Faucet, of course not. Some fellow washed his sewer hose out on the morrow. Will he never spray the disinfectant, to keep us all from getting sick? and will he always run his Engine so long, does no one get any peace? The Animals, they roam to YIP and leave deposits on the Lomin. Must we walk through a campsite and not go around, My privacy lost to a Camper unknowing. and, what’s the speed of that Rig, Car or Truck, Does he not know a kid is afoot. My tale of Woe is coming to an end, we Thank you all for your attention, And do have a Happy Camping Season. Come Hook UP with Fred, he may know how to do it. To my Surprise, he just might know what to do. My RV Purrs, my Fresh Water Flow, & Flows, My Waste Water Drains, My neighbors are Happy, and so are we. 6-29-07 Copyright Protected @ 2007 RV101byFred Read More →



