Comments on: Winter Battery Storage & Maintenance

By: Vicki

Vicki — Thu, 01 Apr 2010 01:53:53 +0000

We are storing a Roadtreck in Europe for 3-4 months at a time. It is outside and we cannot remove batteries or plug in anything. We were thinking of buying a solar battery maintainer. Is this a good idea? Do we need a pulse one? Would it be better to just buy a larger solar setup that would maintain battery and also supply some solar power for dry camping? We don’t want to invest more than about $300.

By: Sharilewis

Sharilewis — Mon, 29 Mar 2010 11:39:49 +0000

I have a Miata that has never had the battery removed for charging and is stored for 7 months during the winter. It also has one of the aforementioned float chargers continually connected and active. The current AGM battery is seven years old. UB12350

By: Ron

Ron — Sun, 03 Jan 2010 02:49:59 +0000

Rookie here: Without any forethought, in November I bought a 1995 Winnebago Sunrise Class A. I am storing it outside my home in Colorado. Is there any action that I should be taking to protect the batteries such as by starting the home weekly and leaving it run for 30 minutes or so. Or should I just bring the batteries inside and put them on a charger? The motorhome can’t be driven since the driveway is steep and it is snowcovered, which will be the situation until March. Thanks.

By: Thor

Thor — Tue, 24 Nov 2009 08:14:20 +0000

Also in a freezing climate. Have TT. Didn’t use last winter and batteries got close to freezing–but didn’t. Used small charger on a trickle charge for 48 hours in garage.
Tow vehicle has space for two batteries (used when had overhead camper). Even though the TT batteries are deep cycle I wonder if I can’t just keep my TT battery in the truck (which gets used every other day) and run my cables from the truck battery to the TT battery.
I have very heavy cables (heavier than jumper cables) that can be attached to the post on both batts. (I always get batts with posts and side mounts) The side mount on my truck battery is connected to the alternator and starter–it starts is the coldest weather.
As long as my cables are connected in parallel (plus to plus and minus to minus) can I just keep the deep cycles charged by the truck? Thor niwenterprises@yahoo.com

By: oes tsetnoc

oes tsetnoc — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 15:45:11 +0000

how to mantenance loose batterey, i had lose power batterei , can i resolve it

By: Shelly

Shelly — Wed, 14 Oct 2009 15:07:35 +0000

Helloooo Thomas, did you not read the article?
The article clearly states:
“When you put the RV in long term storage it’s a good idea to remove the batteries and put them in storage too.
Battery Tip: When you remove a battery turn off the ignition switch, all electrical switches, and any battery disconnect switches before you disconnect the battery cables. Whenever you remove any battery cables label them first so you remember how they go back on the battery next spring. When you reinstall the battery do it in the reverse order. Install the positive cable first and then the negative cable.”

GEESH!

By: Thomas Becher

Thomas Becher — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 15:24:32 +0000

Except for the last poster nowere did you say disconnect the battery. The Propane gas detector takes power all the time as do some radios. They will kill your battery soon enough. better yet take the battery into the house or somewhere that will not freeze. That way if it goes dead(from natural discharge) it will still be able to be charged. But if a battery freezes it’s shot and may burst.

By: Ian McKee

Ian McKee — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 19:40:25 +0000

Did anyone ever hear of AGM batteries? They’re sealed so forget battery acid.
I have four 6 v batteries in my fifth wheel (there are others than motor coaches) and I’ve installed a cutoff switch so I can disconnect the batteries during storage.
Works for me!

By: dan thomas

dan thomas — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 19:23:46 +0000

will there be any damage to my diesel engine if i mix my old oil into the fuel tank it has a 100 gal. tank.

By: Darthvagrant

Darthvagrant — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 19:23:01 +0000

If the voltage measured AT THE BATTERIES is 13.7 volts, that should be sufficient to initiate a slow charge. That is a voltage value more in keeping with normal “12V system
voltage”, albeit a little high for continued battery connection after a full charge. If you’re measuring the voltage elsewhere, check it at the batteries. To initiate a charge, an initial
voltage of somewhere around 14.2-14.4 volts would be appropriate. A Cytek or Battery Tender will provide this voltage initially, tapering down to a ‘float’ of about 12.8-13 volts.
.
I leave all three batteries in situ and keep a Cytek or Battery Tender “float charger” connected continuously when the RV is inactive. I have a Miata that has never had the battery removed for charging and is stored for 7 months during the winter. It also has one of the aforementioned float chargers continually connected and active. The current AGM battery is seven years old. Batteries, particularly the “golf cart” 6 volt batteries (in series) in my motorbox are waaaaay too heavy to remove for charging IMHO. (Removal not being necessary as explained)
.
The foregoing is assuming there is 120 V continuously available where the vehicle is stored.