RV Security Improvements – Change Those Locks!
Do you know what CH751 means? It’s a number stamped on your RV storage door lock key. And it’s the same number stamped on almost every RV storage door lock key. Go ahead. Take a look right now. From the factory, most RVs use the same key and lock combination for all the external storage doors. This means you can wait until your camping neighbor leaves the campground for the day and then you can go check out his “stuff” with your key. All kidding aside, to improve your RV security, you should change out those locks or have them re-keyed. This goes for your RV entrance doors as well. RV dealers have a master key that fits these locks too!Who knows why RV manufacturers use the same key/lock combo. Probably because it’s cheaper and less of a hassle to keep track of unique keys. Maybe they think that the general trust and helpfulness among fellow RVers means no happy camper would ever steal another’s stuff. But it’s not the happy camper who rips off a camper’s things. It’s the thief who thinks he likes your stuff better than you. But you can help deter most thieves by ensuring your locks are unique. And replacing the storage and entrance door locks is very easy to do.
For the storage doors, you have a few options. You can have the lock re-keyed or you can opt for a combi-lock. The combi-lock is a cam type lock just like the factory storage locks except it uses a combination instead of a key. The combination can be set to something unique to you, making it easy to remember but difficult for a thief to guess. And you don’t have to carry extra keys around with you.
For your RVs entrance doors, your options are to have the locks re-keyed, or replace the entire latch/lock assembly with a new one. There are several different types and styles to choose from as well. Removing the latch assembly from the door is straightforward. Just remove 2 screws from the striker and 4 screws from the inside portion of the latch. Some latch assemblies will vary but this is the general approach. The latch will practically fall out so hold on to it when removing the last screw.
Take the latch assembly to a locksmith and have him rekey BOTH locks, the deadbolt and the “normal” lock. This will ensure your locks are totally unique and no one but you has the keys to your baby. Other areas to address are the windows and tongue latch (if you have a towable). There are products available to assist in these areas as well.
You might not be able to stop the most tenacious of thieves, but hopefully not having the CH751 locks will slow down the culprit enough that he will move on.
Have you done this mod? Please let us know what you did and how you did it. And for more information and pictures of replacing your RV storage and entrance door locks, wander on over to ModMyRV.com and have a look at this article:
http://www.modmyrv.com/2009/03/18/rv-door-storage-locks
Happy modding!
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Confused about something……when I am plugged into shore power, the converter in my unit is charging my chassis battery………right??
Now, how can I tell if it is “over-charging”??
If I am plugged in for a few days, should I turn off the “main battery” for the entire unit??
Thank you.
I changed all my storage locks out and got the camlock security type from Industrial Lock & Hardware. Well worth the thought of having some sense of security.
Website: http://www.iss4locks.com/camtub.htm
As a newbie, it certainly does help to have this info – especially since I carry my $1K Honda 200i in my main storage compartment. Also, you mentioned windows … My rig has those little wing-type flip latches on the side sliding windows and one is extremely loose and ineffective. Do you know of any commercial upgrade/replacements for those? Thanks again for the great article!
FX
I believe the author used campfire information. As this blog often does. That being that almost all RV’s are keyed alike. This is not true. There are several different keys used on RV’s. But not many. Less than 10 last time I checked.
I checked this winter and the key to my storage doors would not open the storage doors on the RV’s parked next to me. My RV has three different keys. Storage doors, engine compartment, gas door. All the same blank.
The problem with re-keying is that the new lock is just as easy to get into as the old one.
The only cheap upgrade would be to locks with a combination. Even a three combination lock has 999 combinations.
Larry
Sorry Larry. As much as I like to tell stories around the campfire, what I wrote is indeed true. Please read what I wrote:
“And it’s the same number stamped on almost every RV storage door lock key.”
Notice I said “almost” and “storage”. That doesn’t mean all RVs and it most certainly doesn’t mean that I said the same key is used for your storage, engine, and gas doors. It means storage doors.
I too have 3 keys for my TT: one for my main entrance door, one for my bunkhouse door, and one for my storage door locks. This article refers to the very common CH751 storage door lock/key combination.
Last year, before I did this mod, I forgot my TT keys and when we arrived at the campground, I couldn’t open any of my storage doors. I went over to a random camping neighbor with a 5th wheel, explained my situation, and asked to borrow his CH751 key. He didn’t realize they were the same keys used on many RVs. Suffice to say, I was able to open my storage doors with his key.
And I really do enjoy telling THAT story around the campfire!
@Francis: A quick search came up with this:
http://www.technologylk.com/catalog/1906/CRL-RV-Sliding-Window-Latch/
Hope that helps!
Thanks for the reply, Mark. I searched before posting my comment and it certainly appears that cheap (I use the word both literally and figuratively) locks are all that are available for RV windows (at least the ones on my Dutchmen). I thought maybe you had some “secret sauce” in mind when you made the admonishment regarding the windows. Thanks!
CH751 is the “common lock system” shipped with many (actually most) RVs of all types for years. These locks help RV dealers enter/exit storage areas. The idea is that the RV dealer will replace the common locks when the RV is sold, few do. So if you have a key stamped CH751 – I and a few thousand other RVs can open your storage area; if you are cool with that fine – I wasn’t and installed new locks. As stated the locks are easy to by-pass and in someone really wants to get into your storage area and they have a big enough tool; they will get in. On the other hand a 12 year old with his parents keys isn’t going to open my doors.
@Francis: I wish I had a secret sauce to protect RV windows but unfortunately, RV windows are pretty easy to break in to, even with aftermarket locks on them. It’s just a little harder. Dual pane windows can help with breakage (maybe only the first pane is broken and the criminal realizes there is another one to break and just goes away!)
If you have room in the sill behind the sliding window, you can place a rod in the channel to prevent the window from sliding open even if the window lock is not working. Depending on how you size the rod, you can leave the window open slightly for fresh air. The window will only open up so far with the right sized rod.
my rv had no key for basement locks I decided to see just how these locks work
I had another key that would go into the lock.. I saw the all but 3 tumblers
moved down because the key was wrong one.. I took lock insides with key still in it
and ground down thes 3 tumblers now key opens locks, when key is removed remaining tumblers come up to lock it from turning.
no key problem solved as I modified all the remaining basement locks
My hood key ..water and electrical all are different. keys
on my 1993 Fleetwood Flair
Hi,
Locks are meant to keep honest people honest. They will not deter a thief, no matter what type of security system you employ. The fact that the same lock has been used on thousands of RVs for years is telling of the honesty of the folks in the RVing world – of which I’m a proud member
tom
I changed mine, and added those little drawer alarms you can buy at Harbor freight. They cost about ten dollars for ten of them. The theif can still force his way in, but there will be a devil of a racket when he does, and they don’t like attention. G Shea
Must be kicked off this net have sent 6 post & none have come up Rick Vogel retired Army
OH! your not allowed to talk about lock-bumping Here you running the add’s to get lock bumping kit’s & Lock smith tool’sI see they are gone now? Rick Vogel Retired Army
I have an outside compartment that holds a flat screen TV and DVD player. It is keyed with a round shaped key that I’m told every Winnebago in the last 20 years uses. I’ve asked a couple dealers and they don’t know how to replace the lock.
Anyone know how to do it?
I checked the 3 storage compartment locks and the water access door and they were all CH751 on my Class-C Coachmen.
I saved a few $ by
1. Removing the current storage door locks and measuring the depth (thickness)
2. Quick trip to Home Depot and I found locks that had the same key number
3. Installed the three locks.
4. There were no options for the thin plastic door that covers my water access but am not worried about someone trying to break in there. Its only plastic and a strong pull with your fingers would probably break it.
Comment. The only difficulties I had was getting the nuts on the original locks to turn as they had been sealed with RTV, and to get the key orientation I wanted so the Key orientation (sideways) when locked matched the non-locking latch handles. This way I can tell at a glance if the door is locked or not.
Re: “They will not deter a thief, no matter what type of security system you employ. ”
I disagree. These measures will certainly not *prevent* determined thieves from taking what’s yours, but they can deter them. A thief willing to take enough time and/or make enough noise will almost always succeed, but making them think about how much time they will need and how much noise they will have to make in the process is definitely a deterrent. Same goes for houses – if someone is willing to break glass, they are going to get in better than 90% of the time.
That said, I hope (as a noob) that the claim of honesty in the RV world is as true as I suspect that it is.
My Newmar compartment nmber is cf315. Did Newmar use just another key style or do Newmars have the same issue.
What about “Bump” keys. Same problem as residential houses?
Thanks.
Stumbled into a link that had all kind’s of window lock’s & thing’s to RE-KEY lock’s with and even more and dog jumped up in my lap & hit keyboard & I Lost the url address something like http://www.myrvlocks.com? something close i have tried on & off for 2 day’s to try & find it but I am not to P.C. Illerate!! Take someone smarter than me to find it again was a good link had combination lock’s and several glass windo-lock’s! Good Hunting Rick Vogel Retired Army
Bob Stewart—- Bump-Key’s were for salw here a couple day’s ago on the right hand side for Home & auto plus locksmith-tool’s, I wrote about 4 letter’s and all of a sudden the add’s vanished as well as the locksith tool’s! Dont know if it would of been arcived or not(Probaly-Not!) Think they are illegal in Most state’s? Rick Vogel Retired Army! I got a 10GA. Remington Pump with rifled deer slug’s to Deal with Theive’s!
Bump-Key’s of Locksmith Tool’s includeing lock-Pic’s will get you Jail-Time in the State of Missouri! Unless you pocess on your Person & Up to Date LockSmith License & Bonded By The State of Missouri! you sit in Jail without these Paper’s untill you call a Bond’sman! Same as geeting pulled over at 3a.m. with a Hammer & Crowbar & Flashlight!(Burgerlery Tool’s) This also will land your ass in the Grey-Bar Hotel! Locksmith Tool’s-Pick’s are the most common to get caught with! Place’s will sell you Box’s of Bump-Key’s & Video’s to learn How to use them! Both Home & Padlock Version’s! I Doubt if these Provider’s of these Product’s ask for a State License # Either! That’s Why I went to Infra-Red Detector to Run My Catch a Theif Program Light’s inside & out come on Diesel Horn Blow’s! I the guy has any Brain’s at all He is gonna Haul-Butt out of There? Tried motion sensor’s first but unless i put the jack’s down before cocktail Time My Hawaian Bobble-Head Doll set it off! if the wind kicked up & the Trailer was Rickin! So i went to lazer -Heat Detection work’s Dam Good! Hell growing up on the farm No-one locked there door’s you might come home & find a note from a Neighbor saying his car Had broken Down & Barrowed your’s to get part’s in Town! Sad! But you Cant Due This NO-MORE! I Have a small Built-in Floor safe to protect Traveler’s Check’s & Hand-gun’s & a Built in Hidden Gun Safe for long-gun’s! That Remington 10GA. with a rifled deer slug would probally cut a man in Half! I Guess i would have to Drag Him Back Inside the Trailer! Glad Most of the floor is Oak or Tile! Rick Vogel Retired Army Who Hate’s Theive’s of any-Kind!
[...] RV Security Improvements – Change Those Locks!: From the factory, most RVs use the same key and lock combination for all the external storage [...]
True about storage room/basement locks. Went looking at campers 2 yrs. ago, and salesman opened lock with CH751 key. I asked to look at the key, and commented to him: “Looks like my camper shell key.” Sure was! I would like to suggest that when replacing the 751 locks, look at the keyed mail box locks. Don’t know where they may be found, or if they may be ordered with “X” number keyed alike. I would think so. I’m a retired maint. mech., and have replaced a quite a few mail box locks, (all different keys). Have the nut, cam ass’y, etc. Phillips head screw so that the cam can be oriented correctly. Some locks have “U” shaped hold-in device and suggest that you steer clear of that. That type, probably, could be popped out with a flat blade screwdriver. Please, please us caution!
Yes, there are bump lock kits available——–just dig around on the internet! This is the easiest way for a thief to enter a residence. Saw a video on-line last summer about this. Last few years, most break-ins occur during the day time when everyone is at work! ! ! ! ! Recommend and urge that your local law enforcement do a PROPERTY CHECK at least once an hour. Not that I speak from the voice of experience, and hope that I never do! All I have to do is e-mail local law enforcment and let them know when I’m leaving and when I’ll be back. They do the rest! Neighbors even told me that they get out of their car and do a ‘walk-around’ just to check! ! !
Sorry this is so long, but SAFETY is p a r a m o u n t in A L L circumstances!
Rick——-I’m retired USNR Seabee!
:):):)
NOTE: Federal law requires that ONLY THUMB LOCKS be used in the compartment that houses your LP Tanks. This is because it aids in quickly turning off the LP Supply in the case of an emergency, without wasting the time fumbling for or attempting to locate keys. Under NO circumstances should you put keyed locks on your LP compartments.
Thanks for the great post. After I have my locks changed, is there a particular type of RV security system you recommend?
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How to Rekey a Door Lock
If you want to have a new key to open your locks, would you have the locks changed or rekeyed?
Usually, the initial thought is to change the locks so that a new key is needed to open the lock. However, by rekeying locks, your cost will be lower and the job easier.
Changing your locks removes the entire old lock from the door and replaces it with a brand new lock. But rekeying locks is much easier and cheaper!
1. Check the brand on every door; your locks might have different manufactures. Purchase a re-key kit for each brand. They are readily available at home stores and online. The kits come with two keys and tools to re-key six door locks.
2. Unlock the door, and remove the doorknob by inserting the wire tool, included in your kit, into the hole on the knob. Release the clip and pull off the knob.
3. Push the lock cylinder out of the knob. Once the knob sleeve drops off, use the retainer ring tool, also in your re-key kit, to free the cylinder.
4. Using your old key, turn the lock ninety degrees left or right. Take the key out and push the plug through with the plug follower tool in your kit. Exert even pressure on the plug and tool to make sure you don’t loose the springs
5. Empty the plug pins and put the new key in the lock. Use tweezers to insert new color-coded pins into the plug. Follow kit instructions to ensure the new pins are in the right order. Reassemble the doorknob.
Tips
Every brand of lock is slightly different; refer to the manufacturer’s directions for any nuances.
If the springs do pop out when you remove the plug, your re-key kits contains instructions for replacing them.
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