Comments on: Today’s Roof Air Conditioner Choices

By: Lug_Nut

Lug_Nut — Wed, 01 Jul 2009 11:30:19 +0000

Rusty Basinger, There are different size A/C units available, each requiring slightly different current loads. Generally you need a generator large enough to handle not only the rated wattage of the A/C unit, but also to handle the compressor start up load as well as some additional capacity for your charger and like equipment. This will pretty well mean you will probably need a 3000 watt for a smaller single unit and up from there. I hope this is of some help. Thank you for your input.

By: Rusty Basinger

Rusty Basinger — Wed, 01 Jul 2009 00:00:13 +0000

What size generator would i need for ac units

By: Jim

Jim — Fri, 05 Jun 2009 03:44:52 +0000

Tracie,
More than likely the problem with your A/C freezing up and resticting the air flow across the evaporator coil, is that the switch that controls the compressor is either faulty or not properly installed. This is a sealed switch that senses the temperature of the evaporator coil which in turn turns the compressor off and on. Remove the inlet air filter and shine a light on the evaporator coil to see if you can see the switch (about the size of a quarter and 3/4″ thick) that is attached to the coil fin or U bend tube. If the switch is hanging loose, take the unit to a RV repair shop so that the top cover and sheet metal duct work can be removed to gain access to the evaporator coil. Since I work on A/C units, this is probably the source of your problem. Sounds like the individual that installed the 15,000 btu unit did not reinstall the compressor temp. control switch. This switch is part of the controls that in mounted directly above the inlet air filter and would not necessairly have been repurchased with the larger A/C unit. But the switch that I have described has to be connected to the new larger units evaporator coil.
The 15,000 Btu A/C unit has sufficient capacity if properly working to cool your trailer in 100+ outside temp.
I know that this is a long winded answer or comment, but that is how we southern boys are.
Jim

By: Lug_Nut

Lug_Nut — Fri, 05 Jun 2009 03:02:39 +0000

Tracie, If your air conditioner froze it may be an indication that it is too large for the space/air flow. It’s kind of like your house. If it requires a 1 – 1/2 ton A/C unit and you put a 3 ton unit in it will freeze up and not allow air flow. Check your air flow and try to increase the air circulation to stop it from intaking cool air.

By: Tracie

Tracie — Fri, 05 Jun 2009 01:53:58 +0000

Have a Komfort 25ft travel trailer and I go visit my son every summer and work in an rv resort for a month in quite hot weather.
Couple of years ago, we removed the AC (13,500 btu) that came with the trailer and installed a 15000 btu. In the hot weather (95-103), inside the trailer still gets warm and throught the day it gets hotter.
Last year I really started to notice that it would get too warm inside so something appeared to be “frozen”. Not sure if that is the correct word or not. If I shut off the AC for about 15mintues or so, then there would be water again dripping down the outside and the inside would start to cool again.
1. Is this normal?
2. How come they do not make anything above 15000 btu?

sincerely

Tracie

By: larry marshall

larry marshall — Sun, 24 May 2009 20:50:42 +0000

Can anyone tell me which Coleman RV airconditioner will start and run with my 2000 Honda generator. I’m considereing either the Polar Cub or the Mark 3 P.S. I have a 8 1/2 foot camper and boondock a lot in the summer. Thanks for reading this.

By: Maxine Simon

Maxine Simon — Sat, 16 May 2009 09:33:47 +0000

Hi I have a big concern and can not get a straight answer. I live in northern ca. I have a 30′ 5th wheel. Just rented it. Have the problem with water running down the side and on the roof? (also just discussed this today with my repair guy and he said that is a big problem should not be leaking anywhere and must be getting ready to go out!!!) See here that seems common and can be fixed. Well my concern from every kind of handy man to rv , tech and so forth. I have been told running these air units is going to cause me a fortune! MIN of what everyone is telling me is a 100 added to my pg&e? Is this true? I have heard they are so high to run no matter what and even with the most conservative person living in it. I am looking at every kind of other unit, from swamp for the window, to a small AC unit Enery affecient. What does anyone recommend. I seem to live in a town that you cant get honest answers no matter what from any kind of buisness person. Just they take your money, or try to sell you something else. I really want to know the honest truth about these air units which are on all RV and Trailers. HELP. Please respond to my email with any help. Thanks Maxine

By: Lug_Nut

Lug_Nut — Mon, 12 Jan 2009 12:11:36 +0000

Klimaanlæg, I’m glad you found this of interest. Thank you for the kind word and for your input.

By: Lug_Nut

Lug_Nut — Mon, 12 Jan 2009 12:09:31 +0000

Rock on, A separate independant powered air conditioner certainly would be do-able, but I don’t know if it would be practical. Thanks for your input.

By: Klimaanlæg

Klimaanlæg — Mon, 12 Jan 2009 05:47:19 +0000

nice post, thanks for sharing!