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	<title>Comments on: LP Appliances- pilot type water heaters</title>
	<atom:link href="http://blog.rv.net/2008/02/lp-appliances-pilot-type-water-heaters/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://blog.rv.net/2008/02/lp-appliances-pilot-type-water-heaters/</link>
	<description>RV Campground &#38; Camping Information - RV, Motorhome, Camper, Travel Trailer &#38; 5th Wheel Owners</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Fri, 10 Feb 2012 21:54:04 -0600</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: LASKO 5395</title>
		<link>http://blog.rv.net/2008/02/lp-appliances-pilot-type-water-heaters/comment-page-1/#comment-116241</link>
		<dc:creator>LASKO 5395</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Nov 2011 10:15:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.rv.net/2008/02/13/lp-appliances-pilot-type-water-heaters/#comment-116241</guid>
		<description>Good article, that hav many knowledge for me.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Good article, that hav many knowledge for me.</p>
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		<title>By: Your Questions About Shower Bases</title>
		<link>http://blog.rv.net/2008/02/lp-appliances-pilot-type-water-heaters/comment-page-1/#comment-113766</link>
		<dc:creator>Your Questions About Shower Bases</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 30 Sep 2011 00:27:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.rv.net/2008/02/13/lp-appliances-pilot-type-water-heaters/#comment-113766</guid>
		<description>[...] Gas Water Heater InformationTankless Water Heaters 101- Lower Gas Bills With Tankless?LP Appliances- pilot type water heatersYou’ve Got What Pierced?!Residential Gas Water Heater InformationTankless Water Heaters 101- Lower [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] Gas Water Heater InformationTankless Water Heaters 101- Lower Gas Bills With Tankless?LP Appliances- pilot type water heatersYou’ve Got What Pierced?!Residential Gas Water Heater InformationTankless Water Heaters 101- Lower [...]</p>
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		<title>By: Pennie Pittman</title>
		<link>http://blog.rv.net/2008/02/lp-appliances-pilot-type-water-heaters/comment-page-1/#comment-105943</link>
		<dc:creator>Pennie Pittman</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 14 Mar 2011 23:50:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.rv.net/2008/02/13/lp-appliances-pilot-type-water-heaters/#comment-105943</guid>
		<description>We seem to have the same problem as Lori’s blog on May 1st , 2008 and Dale&#039;s blog on April 29th, 2009 however, I did not see an answer to Lori or Dale&#039;s post.

We have an Atwood water heater and it worked fine for about 8 years.We had to replace the whole water heater in 2008.  About a year ago the pilot light would light fine, the burner would ignite and then after approx. 10 minutes we would hear a click and a poof and both the burner and the pilot would blow out.  We have replaced the valve and had an RV shop clean everything out but it still won&#039;t stay lit. any suggestions???</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We seem to have the same problem as Lori’s blog on May 1st , 2008 and Dale&#8217;s blog on April 29th, 2009 however, I did not see an answer to Lori or Dale&#8217;s post.</p>
<p>We have an Atwood water heater and it worked fine for about 8 years.We had to replace the whole water heater in 2008.  About a year ago the pilot light would light fine, the burner would ignite and then after approx. 10 minutes we would hear a click and a poof and both the burner and the pilot would blow out.  We have replaced the valve and had an RV shop clean everything out but it still won&#8217;t stay lit. any suggestions???</p>
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		<title>By: Chris Bryant</title>
		<link>http://blog.rv.net/2008/02/lp-appliances-pilot-type-water-heaters/comment-page-1/#comment-104120</link>
		<dc:creator>Chris Bryant</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 06 Jan 2011 21:10:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.rv.net/2008/02/13/lp-appliances-pilot-type-water-heaters/#comment-104120</guid>
		<description>Hi Ben,
That&#039;s all there is to it- I use a large pair of Channel lock &quot;pump&quot; pliers to break the old valve loose (it&#039;s easier if you remove the sheet metal exhaust baffle first), and install the new replacement by hand.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Ben,<br />
That&#8217;s all there is to it- I use a large pair of Channel lock &#8220;pump&#8221; pliers to break the old valve loose (it&#8217;s easier if you remove the sheet metal exhaust baffle first), and install the new replacement by hand.</p>
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		<title>By: Ben</title>
		<link>http://blog.rv.net/2008/02/lp-appliances-pilot-type-water-heaters/comment-page-1/#comment-104119</link>
		<dc:creator>Ben</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 06 Jan 2011 19:53:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.rv.net/2008/02/13/lp-appliances-pilot-type-water-heaters/#comment-104119</guid>
		<description>How do you change the gas valve? I have an Atwood  G6A-7. with jade control. I believe the control is bad, I see it simply screws in (once removing connections of course). Do I just grip the control and turn to remove/replace it?
thanks</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>How do you change the gas valve? I have an Atwood  G6A-7. with jade control. I believe the control is bad, I see it simply screws in (once removing connections of course). Do I just grip the control and turn to remove/replace it?<br />
thanks</p>
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		<title>By: oven</title>
		<link>http://blog.rv.net/2008/02/lp-appliances-pilot-type-water-heaters/comment-page-1/#comment-102594</link>
		<dc:creator>oven</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 23 Nov 2010 10:52:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.rv.net/2008/02/13/lp-appliances-pilot-type-water-heaters/#comment-102594</guid>
		<description>Victory Sensors are a reputed manufacturer, supplier and trader of all Industrial Furnace, ThermoCouples Manufacturers, Industrial Oven Manufacturers. Industrial Furnace which are used in agricultural research, process control and various calibration..for more details visit http://www.victorysensors.com/</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Victory Sensors are a reputed manufacturer, supplier and trader of all Industrial Furnace, ThermoCouples Manufacturers, Industrial Oven Manufacturers. Industrial Furnace which are used in agricultural research, process control and various calibration..for more details visit <a href="http://www.victorysensors.com/" rel="nofollow">http://www.victorysensors.com/</a></p>
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		<title>By: rodney taylor</title>
		<link>http://blog.rv.net/2008/02/lp-appliances-pilot-type-water-heaters/comment-page-1/#comment-92647</link>
		<dc:creator>rodney taylor</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 02 May 2010 00:10:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.rv.net/2008/02/13/lp-appliances-pilot-type-water-heaters/#comment-92647</guid>
		<description>I need a used suburban water heater</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I need a used suburban water heater</p>
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		<title>By: Yanek</title>
		<link>http://blog.rv.net/2008/02/lp-appliances-pilot-type-water-heaters/comment-page-1/#comment-90961</link>
		<dc:creator>Yanek</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 24 Mar 2010 07:48:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.rv.net/2008/02/13/lp-appliances-pilot-type-water-heaters/#comment-90961</guid>
		<description>Hi,
Wish I found your Blog on the Atwood G10 10 gallon, pilot water heater 9 days ago.

The Pilot Light would not stay on after the Pilot Knob was released after 1-2 Minutes. I replaced the Pilot Light and Thermocouple Assembly.
No Change.

I obtained a Newer Type Thermostat/Control Valve assembly, and installed it.
Working Fine.

I wish I did a mV test,  on the Thermo-couple as I seem to notice that the Pilot Flame seems larger and hotter now. When  in the Dark, I notice that after a minute or so the last 1/3 of the New Thermo-Couple Probe, is just slightly glowing Red on the metal Rod.   I suspect that the 2 year old Atwood Thermostat/Control Valve has a restricted Pilot supply, and is unfortunately not adjustable.

Shouldn&#039;t these units have a much longer life expectancy and warranty than only 2 years.

I checked the ECO Over Temp protection Fuse with an ohm-meter and it is fine ( near Zero Ohms). Atwood Support seemed to think it went over temperature and 
had a blown ECO, which is not the case, here.

When I move the Temperature Control Lever, I hear an internal clunk,
indicating mechanically it is working temperature fine, control wise.

Also when I last was able to run the main Burner, after the water reached the Set Temperature and Gas to the burner was shut off, I noted a very small flame visible inside the Burner Air Shuttle Inlet.

I feel Atwood should replace all these pre-maturely failing Thermostat/Control Valve assembly, free of charge.

Two major faults !,
1) Valve does not shut off 100 %, 
2)  Insufficient Pilot Gas, flame size, to heat the Thermocouple enough, to get enough mV voltage to trigger the Valve to go on, or intermittently shut-off.

$19 for a New Thermocouple and Pilot Assembly, obatined locally, some dealers wanted varied from $19 to $35

$155 for a New  84-91602 Robert Shaw, locally price varied from $155 to $235

Old failed one was a  84-91601 Jade (ITT) Thermostat /Valve  
( Just under 2 years old )


Thanks,

Yanek</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi,<br />
Wish I found your Blog on the Atwood G10 10 gallon, pilot water heater 9 days ago.</p>
<p>The Pilot Light would not stay on after the Pilot Knob was released after 1-2 Minutes. I replaced the Pilot Light and Thermocouple Assembly.<br />
No Change.</p>
<p>I obtained a Newer Type Thermostat/Control Valve assembly, and installed it.<br />
Working Fine.</p>
<p>I wish I did a mV test,  on the Thermo-couple as I seem to notice that the Pilot Flame seems larger and hotter now. When  in the Dark, I notice that after a minute or so the last 1/3 of the New Thermo-Couple Probe, is just slightly glowing Red on the metal Rod.   I suspect that the 2 year old Atwood Thermostat/Control Valve has a restricted Pilot supply, and is unfortunately not adjustable.</p>
<p>Shouldn&#8217;t these units have a much longer life expectancy and warranty than only 2 years.</p>
<p>I checked the ECO Over Temp protection Fuse with an ohm-meter and it is fine ( near Zero Ohms). Atwood Support seemed to think it went over temperature and<br />
had a blown ECO, which is not the case, here.</p>
<p>When I move the Temperature Control Lever, I hear an internal clunk,<br />
indicating mechanically it is working temperature fine, control wise.</p>
<p>Also when I last was able to run the main Burner, after the water reached the Set Temperature and Gas to the burner was shut off, I noted a very small flame visible inside the Burner Air Shuttle Inlet.</p>
<p>I feel Atwood should replace all these pre-maturely failing Thermostat/Control Valve assembly, free of charge.</p>
<p>Two major faults !,<br />
1) Valve does not shut off 100 %,<br />
2)  Insufficient Pilot Gas, flame size, to heat the Thermocouple enough, to get enough mV voltage to trigger the Valve to go on, or intermittently shut-off.</p>
<p>$19 for a New Thermocouple and Pilot Assembly, obatined locally, some dealers wanted varied from $19 to $35</p>
<p>$155 for a New  84-91602 Robert Shaw, locally price varied from $155 to $235</p>
<p>Old failed one was a  84-91601 Jade (ITT) Thermostat /Valve<br />
( Just under 2 years old )</p>
<p>Thanks,</p>
<p>Yanek</p>
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		<title>By: Dave</title>
		<link>http://blog.rv.net/2008/02/lp-appliances-pilot-type-water-heaters/comment-page-1/#comment-88143</link>
		<dc:creator>Dave</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 26 Dec 2009 20:26:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.rv.net/2008/02/13/lp-appliances-pilot-type-water-heaters/#comment-88143</guid>
		<description>Hello!....  I own an older Jayco Eagle 35&#039; w/ an Atwood furnace. The problem is the pilot can be lit, but goes out as soon as it is dialed off the pilot setting. I have replaced the themocoupler, tightened it, but still the same. The controls were replaced a couple years back. This is maddening...ANY???

Thanks Dave - desperate in LBV</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello!&#8230;.  I own an older Jayco Eagle 35&#8242; w/ an Atwood furnace. The problem is the pilot can be lit, but goes out as soon as it is dialed off the pilot setting. I have replaced the themocoupler, tightened it, but still the same. The controls were replaced a couple years back. This is maddening&#8230;ANY???</p>
<p>Thanks Dave &#8211; desperate in LBV</p>
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		<title>By: Robert</title>
		<link>http://blog.rv.net/2008/02/lp-appliances-pilot-type-water-heaters/comment-page-1/#comment-84295</link>
		<dc:creator>Robert</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 05 Sep 2009 05:54:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.rv.net/2008/02/13/lp-appliances-pilot-type-water-heaters/#comment-84295</guid>
		<description>I have a 92 Kountry Aire 5th Wheel with a Suburban Hot water heater, The pilot will light and stay lit, up until the thermostat kicks the gas on then the pilot will instantly go out. ( you can lite the burner manualy and when the water heats up the pilot will stay lit up until the water heater tries to turn back on then same old thing, pilot goes out and you have to lite manualy) I already replaced the Thermo couplour the pilot the orifice, and replaced the gas valve twice, to no avail same thing happens would appreciate any ideas, Thanks..</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a 92 Kountry Aire 5th Wheel with a Suburban Hot water heater, The pilot will light and stay lit, up until the thermostat kicks the gas on then the pilot will instantly go out. ( you can lite the burner manualy and when the water heats up the pilot will stay lit up until the water heater tries to turn back on then same old thing, pilot goes out and you have to lite manualy) I already replaced the Thermo couplour the pilot the orifice, and replaced the gas valve twice, to no avail same thing happens would appreciate any ideas, Thanks..</p>
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