Are generators easy to install? Part 5
Installation of a generator in an RV can range from; throwing it and a fuel can in the back of the truck, to major modifications to a storage area and the primary wiring in the coach.
Portable generators usually travel in the back of the truck or in a storage area. After arriving at the campsite, you place the generator near the shore cord, chain lock it in place, fuel it, plug it in, run it and enjoy (or protect yourself from the neighbors if it’s noisy).
Some people like to permanently mount their portables either in a storage compartment (on a slide out tray hopefully) or mount it on the outside of the coach, say on the front hitch or the rear bumper. Security should be a prerequisite along with mounting to prevent carbon monoxide from entering the coach. Carbon monoxide is an odorless, colorless gas that can kill you – dead. If not dead, it will cause a headache that will make you wish you were dead. I strongly recommend that you get a carbon monoxide detector if you have an RV generator. You might also want to investigate a product call a Gen-Turi. It mounts to the side of the RV and vents exhaust gases above the roof.
Built in units are placed in a specially modified storage compartment and connected to a source of fuel, battery power and the coach electrical system. Some manufacturers are building gensets that mount totally on the rear bumper and look like a tool box installation. If you are going to build one into the coach, get some friends that know carpentry, plumbing, wiring and acoustical insulation, you’re going to need them. The simplest electrical connection method is to wire the generator to a receptacle in the shore cord compartment. When you want to use the generator, unplug the shore cord from the campground power and plug it into the receptacle, start the generator and enjoy. We’re going to talk about Automatic Transfer Switches in part 9 so hold off on the installation until then.
Generator Jim
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well i was wondering how much camco paid you to hilight thier product (gen-turi) cause there are a few more generator extension products out there. I dunno, maybe i cant afford you, i wasn’t even giving the opportunity of refusal.
The generator compartment is supposed to be lined with sheet steel. Generators have been known to catch fire! A steel lining gives a little time to put a fire out. The sheet steel should be installed on standoffs (spacers) instead of flat against wood or other flammable materials (heat passes readily through metal). The sheet steel should be made up by a sheet metal shop with the inside corners seamed tight. Fireproof sound absorbing insulation is a plus.
The generator exhaust must not be near a door, openable window or coach interior air intake. A generator engine that runs on the same fuel as the motorhome engine is convenient. If propane is available on your motorhome or travel trailer, that is also convenient, and non-smelly. Plus, spark engines run on propane last a long time and do not require nearly as much maintenance as gasoline engines.
If your generator gets its fuel from the motorhome engine’s fuel tank, install a separate fuel pick-up dip tube instead of Teeing off the propulsion engine’s fuel line. This secondary dip tube should not go to the bottom of the tank. This leaves enough fuel in the tank to get you to the fuel station even if the generator runs out of fuel.
An inverter-type generator is much friendlier than an old constant-speed generator set. It runs only fast enough to provide the power you are using, so makes less noise at less than maximum power. Better generators also have sound-absorbing housings.
If I want to use a portable gen such as Honda 3000 inside my gen compartment(2003 Cedar Creek), other than piping the exhaust outside of the compartment, will the gen operate properly in regards air intake, heat disapation, etc.
I also wonder if operating in a confined compartment would compromise the warranty.